Engine installation
Like covering, installing the engine is another of those areas where there are so many other information sources available that for us to go into detail would be redundant. We’ll hit each of those areas that are unique to the Bearhawk and give references for the rest of the information.
Engine installations are nothing new, and the Tony Bingelis book “Firewall Forward” is a great reference. Preparing for the engine installation can be intimidating for a first-time builder. Start somewhere, and take it one step at a time. That somewhere might as well be the engine mount.

Installing the Engine Mount
Run a 3/8” reamer through each of the engine mount bushings to bring them up to size and clean any welding scale out. Your engine mount was welded in a rigid jig, but like all engine mounts, the legs may displace slightly during welding, so it is normal to need to spring as least two of the legs into position.
Put the mount up in position and slide a bolt into the top, right leg. Then grind a slightly rounded point into a 3/8” hardware store bolt and slide it into the top, left fuselage bushing from the rear. By springing the motor mount leg, you should be able to push, or gently tap with a small hammer, the pointed bolt in far enough from the back to the hold the leg in position. Then put the permanent bolt in from the front and tap the temporary bolt out. Repeat the process until all the bolts are in position. We recommend a washer under the bolt head, and 1-3 washers under the nut. Nyloc nuts are acceptable if behind the firewall. If you install the bolts with the head in the cabin, use drilled bolts, castle nuts, and cotter pins. Nyloc nuts are not acceptable when they might be exposed to temperatures warm enough to soften the plastic.

Rubber Isolators
O-540’s have two different diameter holes in the mount lugs, which are bolted to the case. If you have a 2″ hole , then you need the Barry PN94011-02 (Lord J9613-12) isolator and the Type II mount from Bearhawk Aircraft. If you have a 1 3/8″ hole on your engine, then you need a Barry 94110-01 (Lord J7402-24) and the Type I engine mount. On the 94011/10-02 isolator, there is a top and bottom (one hard and one soft half per mount). Pay attention to the installation directions that will come with the rubber units. Some isolators are directional, meaning that one pad is much stiffer than the opposite pad. The stiffer pads are meant to go in the back, against the engine mount, to take the weight of the engine when the aircraft is sitting on the ground. The stiffer ones are easy to pick out, they have a “ridge” that is molded into them. If they go in backwards, your engine will sag quickly. Builder Zane provides this image and commentary:

O-320/360’s use the Type I mount. Measure the “cups” that are welded to the engine mount. If the cups in the engine mount are around 2-5/8 inches in diameter, you’ll want Lord J-7402-16 or Aircraft Spruce P/N 08-03600 if you can get them.
Larger cups use Barry 94011-20 or Lord J7402-24 isolators.
Builder Ivan H. did some research and found the following about the Lord 7402-24 vs the 7402-16:
I spoke with a Lord engineer again today. The gel filled spacers are designed to prevent metal to metal contact between the spacer and the inner portion of the dynofocal mount ring during start up and shutdown. That is when the engine experiences the most twisting in its mount. He also said that if a person wanted to save a few bucks, the gel filled ones are only needed on the upper left and lower right locations (as viewed from the cockpit in a front engined plane) to get the same protection. So if one is concerned about that sort of thing, get the Lord J-7402-24’s for those locations and the J-7402-16’s for the other two locations. They have the same stiffness He did acknowledge that many installations don’t need that protection, but couldn’t comment on the Patrol due to no engineering data.

Continental 0-470’s use Barry 94110-40 or Lord J6545-1 isolators.