Installing the Vertical Stabilizer

Source: 2009 Q4 Beartracks, Glenn Patterson 09q4verticalstab
The fuselage must be sitting square and level on the table with the tailpost dead vertical. The rudder also has to be assembled accurately for this method to work. The string is a fine 50lb. braided fishing line in the plumb bob and for the baseline string. Fishing line can take a lot of tension which helps with accuracy.
First step is to roughly install the vertical stabilizer with one tack weld on the bottom of the leading edge tube. Place the tack on the center facing towards the front of the fuselage. This will allow sideways movement of the stabilizer. Tack the top so T25 rib runs parallel to rudder and so that the assembly looks fairly straight front to back.
Tie a “Baseline” string line to the fuselage and wrap it around the tailpost & the base of the leading edge tube to also be tied tight to the fuselage. The string needs to be on the same side of both tubes and tied tight. Slide a piece of 1/8×1/2 flatbar under the string at the leading edge tube and set it so that it is flat with the string. The tailpost is a 7/8” tube and so the 1/8” shim added to the leading edge tube makes the string line parallel to the vertical stabilizer center line running through the tailpost and the lead edge tube. Similar to these illustrations.
Now take a piece of 1/8” aluminum flatbar and hold it against the top of the leading edge tube with the plumb bob string so that the flatbar is flat against the tube and not held off by any welds. This is shown in the diagram on the next page. The top of the fin is adjusted until the string lines just touch.
The strings must barely touch to be accurate because if the plumb bob line leans heavy into the baseline string then the accuracy is lost. The top of the Vertical Stabilizer (VS) leading edge tube is the exact center line required for the vertical fin when the strings just touch. Stand back and eye ball the fin as the leading edge tube should be centered on the tailpost.09q4verticalstab2
Slide the plumb bob halfway down the leading edge tube and check that the two strings just touch. This will make sure that the center of the VS tube is on center or needs to be adjusted to take out any twist in the leading edge tube. It the string lines just make contact at the top and mid point then the VS is located over the centerline from the tailpost to the offset point of the leading edge tube. Stand back and visually check that the front tube of the VS fin runs vertical with the tailpost. If the fuselage is set up straight then the fin should be exactly where it needs to be without any guesswork. Check the top of fin and midpoint after each adjustment until the fin is in the right place and aligned. Then start tacking welding the vertical fin to the tailpost and keep checking. Once the top & middle of the vertical fin is set it is more accurate than the eye. Check the fit ups with the rudder as well as the fin has to flow into the rudder.
Some may argue that the top is off the width of the string line but that is only a few thousandths of an inch. A person can compensate for that by adding a shim equal to the line thickness under the plumb bob string.

Joe Lisanke Builder Update

Source: 2009 Q4 Beartracks, Joseph Lisanke
I haven’t sent in anything about my Bearhawk recently, so here goes: I’m getting close to the covering stage of my project. The airframe is done; scratch-built wings and other misc parts, and Avipro fuselage, controls, and seats, a great time saver. I’ve been working on the engine installation, panel, and interior touches the past few years and the majority of that work is done now. I want to do an auto pilot and EFIS installation at some point, but am thinking for the time being of just getting the plane flying with the basics and saving $10 grand in the process. Project was started in 2000 banging out ribs.
Hopefully 2010 will be the year that it flies!
Total time to date: 1850hours.
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Glenn Patterson (Bearhawk 727) Builder Update

Source: 2009 Q4 Beartracks, Glenn Patterson09q4patterson
Wings, flaps& ailerons were inspected in January 2009 and passed without any issues. Inspector was very
impressed with the quality of work & said to keep it up. Wings were completed in June. Installed gap seals to tighten up the fit between wing & control surfaces top & bottom.
Tailfeathers built. Started fuselage in July, and main fuselage assembled and welded. The plumb bobs stayed on the center line for the full length of the fuselage. It is heavily tacked so we are keeping our fingers crossed that it remains straight after welding. Note Bob’s duct tape tube clamps that worked very well. The fuselage is being TIG welded with a good preheat and post heat for the welds plus the shop is kept close to 90 degrees. Busy making control sub assemblies and finishing fuselage.
210hp Continental IO-360 fuel injected 6-cylinder engine acquired. Would like to add electronic ignition and header exhaust to improve engine hp & fuel economy.
Estimated completion is summer 2011
Bob Smith, Jim Reid, & Glenn Patterson
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Aircraft Plumbing

Source: 2009 Q4 Beartracks, Eric Newton
09q4flaring1Caution: Do Not Use automotive flaring tools for aircraft tubing. Automotive flares are done at 45 degrees, aircraft flares are done at 37 degrees. All aircraft quality flare fittings (AN) are set up to receive a 37 degree flare.
Most of the brake lines are ¼” aluminum tubing (3003-0) and the fuel lines are 3/8” aluminum tubing (3003-0). We use the 3003-0 aluminum tubing because it’s nice and flexible but durable as well. You can also use 5052-0 tubing which is a bit stiffer but more durable.
Again, aircraft flare fittings are 37 degrees. Automotive ones are 45 degrees. Make sure that you purchase the correct flaring tool (37 degree) for making up the fittings for your airplane.
Step 1. Cut the tube to the proper length using a tubing cutter. Lightly smooth the end with some fine Emory cloth and debur the inside diameter. Slip on the flare nut (AN818) and sleeve (AN819):
Step 2. Using the proper, 37 degree flare tool, flare the end of the tube:The flared tube:
Step 3. Slide the sleeve (AN819) to the flare:Now you are ready to go. You don’t need any type of sealer, Teflon tape or goop on these fittings. Just leave them dry – they are self-sealing. Don’t over-tighten them. Snug them down but don’t over-do it. It is very important that you never use Teflon tape on aircraft fuel systems.Parker Rolo Flaring Tool
Done incorrectly, small bits of the tape can be torn loose during tightening and clog your fuel system. Flares, like those shown above, need no sealant at all. Pipe thread fittings could use a bit of EZ Turn Lubricant or
Bakerseal to lubricate the threads so they can be tightened down without galling the threads. All fuel and brake lines should be well supported (no less than every 12” for ¼” tubing, and no less than every 16” for 3/8”tubing) against vibration, chafing and movement.
Also, all tubes should have gentle sweeping bends of a proper radius (minimum 9/16” radius for ¼” tubing and minimum 15/16” radius for 3/8” tubing). Kinking of the tube, even a mild one, is cause for rejection and
replacement. Lever-type tubing benders are inexpensive and available from discount tool dealers like Harbor Freight.
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Builder Update from Jason Bradbury

Source: 2009 Q4 Beartracks, Jason Bradbury
I don’t have too much spectacular to report, but will give an update anyway.09q4bradbury
My wife and I live in Yellowknife, NT Canada (north of the N62). I’m a 6000-hour ATP, currently a line pilot and the training captain on the Twin Otter for Air Tindi here in Yellowknife. I always wanted to build my own airplane and looked for a long time at many different kits and plans before settling on to BH. The bar I set for an acceptable project was probably a bit high considering the stuff we do to the Twin Otter, and the fact that I wanted to be able to do the same with my own plane on my days off.
It’s the norm for us to land on an esker (best described as an upside down riverbed, left by a glacier) that is 800ft long 20ft wide with a 12000 lb Twin Otter and be down and stopped inside of 400ft. We operate Twins on Big tires, floats, and skis, I wanted an airplane that I could do all the same stuff with, and we found that in the Bearhawk.09q4bradbury2
I bought plans #1018 about three years ago, and last Feburary ordered all the flat steel from Dillsburg. It’s a little expensive to ship stuff up here (I paid 400 for the steel and 500 to ship it). I started making anything that was made out of flat steel right away.
We ordered all the tubing here in Sept and this time had it shipped by truck from Dillsburg (much much cheaper). So far to date I have completed the tail wheel, aileron and flap hinges and bearing supports, flap handle assembly, rudder pedals, and am just finishing the control sticks. Next up is either seat frames or the tail.09q4bradbury1
We are doing things a little backwards, as we are limited in space with a 16′ x 18′ shop (that we built), and are looking to perhaps buy the quick-build wings. Tube storage has been a bit interesting… as you can see from the photos it has proven handy to have a 10′ ceiling!
Regards,
Jason Bradbury
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Fiberglass Fairing for Van’s RV-10 Air Filter

Source: 2009 Q4 Beartracks, Mark ScottVans FAB on an O540
I have installed several of Van’s parts in my Bearhawk – battery holder, cooling baffling, and air filter unit. I really like their air filter unit. It has very low losses.
Similar to air cleaner units on older cars with carburetors on top of the engine, air is decelerated from the intake into a circular plenum around a circular K&N filter. The decreased velocity and associated air pressure increase greatly reduces losses through the filter as compared to a standard Bracket filter. The air filter can be cleaned and reused indefinitely. I expect to get a two or three percent power increase.
The unit will not fit within the rectangular sheet metal wedge provided with the kit. So I made a wood mold for a fiberglass scoop fairing. I cut a hole in the lower cowl and installed a flange to mate up with the left and right sides of the scoop. The back of the scoop attaches directly to the cowl. The connection between the scoop and Van’s fiberglass unit is conventional using baffling material. 09q4markscott3
Van’s air filter unit comes with very good directions and illustrates the connection. I had to make a soft aluminum adapter between the baffling and the air filter unit to enable a proper angular fit between the air filter and the air scoop inlet. I am riveting the scoop onto the lower cowl. I am able to take the lower cowl on and off with no problem. I think it looks pretty good, is probably lighter, and most likely has a little less drag. I expect to be flying late summer 2010 and I’ll report on how it works. I still have the mold. It is available to anyone who would like to use it.
Van’s air filter installation on an IO-540. It also fits O-540’s Aesthetically it fills in well under the nose and does not reach as far aft as the stock wedge fairing.09q4markscott2

Big Tire Options

Source: 2009 Q4 Beartracks, Mark Goldberg, Bearhawk AircraftN303AP
After having displayed my Bearhawk and the Bearhawks of other builders at many airshows, a recurring comment had been irritating me. People walking by would always think the plane with the biggest, baddest looking tires was the coolest and most MACHO. Even our demo pilot, Cate White, would bug me to put some bigger tires on my BH so it would not look wimpy next to the planes with big tires. Continue reading

Oshkosh or Bust, Eric Newton’s Flight to Oshkosh

Source: 2009 Beartracks, Eric Newton
For us it was bust – twice. Once on the way up and once on the way back – both times what “busted” was our tailwheel fork. My wife Michelle and I started off our Oshkosh trip by loading everything needed for camping out for a week. This included tent, camping gear, lawn chairs, ice chests, 2 cases of bottled water, mattresses, and all of our clothing and other “necessities”. To say we were loaded to gross and max aft CG was an understatement.
Here is our Bearhawk all loaded up and ready to go:
Loaded Bearhawk
On the way up there, our first fuel stop was in Tunica, MS. With a fairly stiff and gusty crosswind we had a bit of a hard landing but nothing too serious and she rolled out straight and true. When I taxied up to the ramp, the lineman directed me over to a parking spot. As I started my turn to the right, I heard a weird sound and noticed that steering while taxiing got very hard to do. I was thinking that the wind was much stronger than usual and was affecting it, so I went ahead and forced it over to where the lineman was directing me, using brakes and more power.
After deplaning I walked around the back and looked down at the tailwheel and saw that it had broken right
where the fork is welded to the cross piece and the tailwheel was sitting at an unusual angle:
Broken Tailwheel
Now that’s a heck of a way to start off a trip! Well, as luck would have it, there was a guy right there on the
field who maintains a fleet of crop dusters. He was able to help me get my tailwheel disassembled and re-welded as good as new within a few hours. To top off my good fortune, the guy wouldn’t even take any money for the work he had done. Yep – there’s still a lot of really great people out there – and most of them are hanging out at small airports across the country.
The rest of our trip up to Oshkosh went without a hitch. We had one more fuel stop at Litchfield, IL which was offering cheap fuel ($3.35 a gallon for 100LL). We also had to land at an airport in Juneau, Wi to wait out some bad weather before continuing on to OSH. We spent a wonderful week at Oshkosh and met a lot of really great people. While up there, I talked to Bob Barrows about the tailwheel and he reminded me that he had changed the tailwheel plans after I had already built mine to include a reinforcement strap at the weld where mine broke. I had just never gotten around to doing the modification. I also met with Scott Weinberg who manufactures the Bob Tailwheel and saw his modifications to that area. I almost bought a new one from Scott right then and there but decided to just keep mine and do the modification after I got home (bad decision, and you will soon see why).
On our way home, we decided to return to Litchfield, IL once again, due to the cheap fuel. So about 2.5 hours after departing from OSH we were in the pattern for Litchfield. The wind was nearly calm and I lined up with the runway and touched down nice and smooth. After landing, we rolled out straight and slowed to taxi speed. I then started to turn around to the left to back-taxi on the runway to the FBO for fuel , when all of a sudden it happened! The tailwheel plopped onto the runway with a thud and I could hear loud scrapping noises. Rather than leave it on the runway I applied power and dragged it off into the grass field alongside the runway. 09q3eric3Shutting down and getting out, I walked back and took one look at the tailwheel and could see that it was much worse than before. This time, the tire and wheel were laying flat on their side on the ground and the fork was twisted completely around 90 degrees.
In a few minutes, an old pickup truck came driving up the runway to meet us. Out jumped a guy who says “Don’t worry, I’m a mechanic and I can fix anything. Hop in the back and I’ll go get some tools and a jack and have this fixed up in no time.” So Michelle and I looked at each other, shrugged and jumped onto the open tailgate and off we went to the FBO. Once there, the mechanic tossed me the keys to an old GMC van and told us where to go get some lunch, while he works on getting the tailwheel off so we could see what it looks like. So off we went to get a little lunch and to try to figure out what to do next.
When we got back to the airport about 1/2 hour later, the mechanic says “I got some bad news and I got some good news. First the bad news:This time the other fork broke off at the weld (not the one we welded in Tunica on Saturday). Here was the damage:
As you can see this was not repairable. The one fork could be welded back on, but the one that stayed
attached was badly twisted at the bottom. As you can imagine I had a few choice words, once again kicking myself for not making the change that Bob had put out. Stupid! Here I was in the middle of nowhere with a broken, unrepairable tailwheel. What now? That brings us to the good news:We actually landed about 15 miles away from one of the few airplane salvage yards in the country – Central Airparts.
So the mechanic gave us directions on how to get there and off we went in the old GMC van searching for this airplane salvage yard. The directions went something like this: “Go down old Hwy 66 and turn right on to IL- 352. When you get to an old trashy looking mobile home, turn right on to the dirt road, then go about 1 1/2 miles and you will see a mill, turn left there, go over the bridge and keep going until you see a bunch of wrecked airplanes next to an old airstrip that you would be out of your mind to try and land at. That’s the place – Go inside and ask for Bob.” Well about 1/2 hour later, we actually found the place. Bob was a super nice guy that had been in the business for over 36 years. He had tons of scrap airplanes and a big building lined with shelves full of airplane parts.
Bob (and his dog and a black cat) was expecting us and said “so you need a tailwheel, huh?” I showed him our old one, he took a few measurements and out we went into the building where Bob started pulling tailwheel after tailwheel off the shelf and measuring them. Finally he came up with two Maule tailwheels and said “well I don’t have one to fit your spring but I think we can take these two and combine the parts to make one that will fit.”
The Maule tailwheel actually looked pretty good and the tire, tube and wheel looked brand new. I know that he knew that I had no choice but to buy the tailwheel, so I was figuring that he was going to want about $500 to $600 for this one and that was probably without the tire and wheel. I asked Bob how much he wanted for it but he didn’t answer me right away. Instead he engaged me in some conversation asking about the airplane and how was Oshkosh. When I told him I built a homebuilt airplane called the Bearhawk, we started talking back and forth about various airplanes that he had worked on and about his visits to Oshkosh over the years. Finally, about 1/2 hour into it, Bob looked at me and said “How’s $195 sound and I’ll throw in the tire and wheel with it?” Again, great people are to be found at small airports.
So off we went back to the airport and the mechanic, who helped me mount the Maule tailwheel onto the Mudbug He greased it up and checked the tire pressure. I then hopped in and taxied it over to the fuel pumps for some $3.35 a gallon 100LL. We finally made it back home – full of wonderful memories and glad to be finally home. Even though the Maule tailwheel was working fine, I went ahead and placed an order with Scott Weinberg for a 10″ tailwheel and replaced the Maule one. I sold the Maule tailwheel to another builder and now have a new Bob tailwheel. All-in-all, we had a really great trip and learned that there are really some nice people out there at the local small town airports.
The Modification:09q3eric4
The modification to the Bob Tailwheel is really simple. You take a strip of 1/8″ thick 4130N steel, 1/4″ wide and about 8″ long, and wrap it around the weld joint where the fork meets the cross piece / king pin assembly. The following pictures are courtesy of Rod Smith. As you can see the 1/4″ wide steel strip wraps around the fork to the cross piece connection: