Trying, then Giving up on the Dynon Autopilot

Source: 2019 Q2 Beartracks, Jared Yates
As any home airplane builder can tell you, sometimes we win, sometimes we lose. Sometimes we make a part once, and it works out great. Sometimes we make the same part 5 times and still aren’t happy with it. Here’s my story of trying out an autopilot installation. I place it in the latter category. It’s a failure in the sense that I didn’t accomplish what I set out to do in the beginning, but it is a success in that I have more data. Sometimes we don’t know that a road is a dead end without driving a few miles.
It all started with the ADS-B mandate. We were happy with the 100-series Dynon products: a D180 on the left, and a D100 on the right. Information could be shared between the two, and the systems were always very robust. As the ADS-B deadline loomed, we didn’t have a firm compliance plan, until Dynon announced that they would be willing to buy back the older units if we purchased their newer Skyview system. This became a very attractive option, partly because their offer price for the buyback was more than I had paid for any of the units in the first place. Also, the Skyview does have some cool extra features, including autopilot integration, and even automatic control of electric trim. Other features are added periodically, because this is still their flagship system, unlike the stagnant D-series. The job went well, spanning the last two months of 2016. We flew with and liked the new system before installing the autopilot, and in the following months, installed the aileron and elevator servos. At the time, these were the only two servos the system supported. There are several ways to install servos in the Bearhawk, but I decided on the under-seat area, as inspired by Bob Triplet. The pitch servo went under the front two seats, with the arm in-line with the elevator cables. The aileron servo went under the front right seat, clamped to the front of the big truss at station C-S. Here are some photos of the installation.
The first photo shows the pitch servo, with the stick in the full-aft position.

This is looking in from the right front door, with the seat removed. The bracket is .050” aluminum, with two –12 unpadded Adel clamps around the tube at the top, and a length of 1/16” extruded aluminum angle at the bottom. The angle is attached to the floorboard.
The next photo is in the same position, but instead of looking across the cabin, it is looking forward.

The roll bracket is also .050” aluminum, but it is supported by unpadded Adel clamps all around. Three –16 across the top, one –16 on the longer diagonal tube/bottom and one –12 on the nearly vertical, outboard tube. I had to lengthen the bolts where the right lower aileron cable joined the stick, and where the upper elevator cable joined its bellcrank. These longer bolts gave a place to secure the rod end bearings for the pushrods. The aluminum tube for the pushrods is 3/8” diameter, .083” wall 6061-T6. One foot was sufficient for making both. The rod ends are McMaster Carr part number 60645K812, with 1/4×28 threads and a 3/16” ball ID. Four are required, along with plain jam nuts.
A few more pictures of the installation:












All of this worked well enough, mechanically speaking. I was able to calibrate the servos and do some test flying. The pitch control was fine, but it became immediately obvious that the roll control was not going to be able to steer the airplane by using ailerons alone. To be fair, there is not a consensus on this point in the Bearhawk community. Some builders adjust aileron rigging to reduce adverse yaw, and some help the system by using their feet when required. But to have the autopilot capable of maneuvering the airplane, at least in our case, aileron alone wasn’t going to work. For those who haven’t flown an airplane with adverse yaw, here is how it goes. If we are in level flight, feet on the floor, and move the control stick to the left, the airplane will bank to the left, with a slight movement of the nose to the right. If we increase the left aileron, the nose goes further right. If the autopilot attempts to turn the airplane left and sees the nose go right, it puts in more left aileron, making the nose go further right, until the servo starts to slip. The airplane just flies along uncoordinated, not getting any closer to the desired heading or bank. We were at a decision point, about to give up. A good price had come along on a third servo, and I had purchased it based on rumors that Dynon was possibly expanding to support a yaw axis. I called them to ask how that was going, and if they needed any beta testers. The support guys said the third axis feature was about to be released very soon, and that I should hold out if I could, so I did.
Meanwhile, I worked out a mechanical installation for the yaw axis. This one is not as easy as pitch and roll, because the system is not a closed loop. In the aileron or elevator system, you can find any point in the control cable, anywhere in the airplane, and make inputs to that single point. If you pull the cable, the controls go one way. If you push the cable, the controls go the other way. However, the rudder system is like the flaps. If you pull a cable, depending on where you are and which way you pull, it may deflect the surface, or it may just make slack in the cable. The servo, with its single point of contact to the cable, needs to have a closed loop. My first thought was to use a two-ended control horn, something what Garmin designed for their RV-10 yaw damper. Dynon doesn’t sell such a horn, though it seemed easy enough to bolt a piece of aluminum on top of a regular one-sided horn. Before I could get to that, a better plan came along. I would close the rudder cable loop by using a capstan-style servo and two pulleys. The servo’s axis of rotation would run longitudinally, and it would be mounted aft of the cabin area. The capstan servo is the same as the arm servos, but instead of an arm, it has a little cable drum fitted with 1/16” diameter cable. The ends of those cables are clamped alongside the primary rudder cables, using nylon blocks. The cables pass through pulleys, which are attached via a thin piece of 4130. I welded bushings onto the ends of the 4130 strap so that the pulley bolt could attach. The servo has a bracket made from .050 aluminum, which is clamped with unpadded adel clamps to the fuselage tubes. There is a single clamp, which allows the assembly to pivot a little vertically, finding its best angle on its own.

If you think this would be a pretty difficult installation post-covering, you are right. It’s miserable in fact. Making things worse, I had what turned out to be a bad wire connection near the servo, which led to me having to take the servo out and put it back in several times. Sometimes it would calibrate and test correctly, and sometimes not. The culprit was a bad d-sub pin, but once it was fixed, the servo started working reliably.
Then came the flight testing. While Dynon had been so nice to release the software update that would enable the yaw servo, they didn’t release much of any documentation about what the settings would do. As months passed, I would talk with their sales folks at the airshows. I learned that the brains behind their autopilot program was Lawrence Doan, and that he was the one who would be able to help me get it all sorted out. I felt a little like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz. Everyone told me about the great wizard, but nobody could put me in touch with him. I wrote him directly and never heard back. I’m sure there are lots of builders who wish to talk with the wizard, and he’s probably very busy. The reality became “nobody gets to see the wizard, not nobody, not no-how.” I’ll skip describing a year or two of back and forth with various Dynon folks who were happy to help at first, but never came through to deliver as promised. They have been understaffed/overwhelmed with their Type-Certificated program, among other things. And who can blame them for not wanting to spend a lot of time fiddling with a single installation when hundreds of builders are backed up out the door to buy well-vetted systems for their RVs.
In the absence of documentation about what the settings were supposed to do, I spent some time in the air just turning knobs and fiddling with them. I was able to get the system working well enough to sort-of fly the plane, but I never could get the rudder inputs good enough to pass the “passengers don’t get nauseous” test. I suspect that the yaw algorithms were designed more as yaw dampers for the RV-10 crowd than as true three-axis systems for a plane that requires foot-skill to fly. While I’m positive that a system could be created that would fly the Bearhawk, I don’t think Dynon has created it yet, and they don’t seem to be motivated to do so any time soon.
Contrary to my experience, there are several happy Bearhawk owners using Dynon and other autopilot systems. Some only use them for straight and level flight. Some supplement with foot input. Most are probably not as picky as I am about how well the autopilot flies or doesn’t fly the airplane. I’m totally spoiled, with over 10,000 hours in airplanes that have extremely robust autopilot systems, developed with industrial-grade R&D budgets. Some with auto-land capability. It isn’t fair for me to expect the same from an E/A-B grade system. It’s a case of “the princess and the pea.” But after a few years of trying, all the while carrying around 15 pounds of weight, I finally decided to give up and remove the system. If we are to succeed in building airplanes, we must have gumption and persistence, but there are also times when we have to pause, disregard sunk cost and completion bias, and take another route. This is part of the process, and part of what makes the hobby a life-long challenge. Education and Recreation. Winning some and losing some. It’s all part of building an airplane.

Pitot Tube

There are a wide variety of pitot tubes and systems available, but they all do the same thing: they measure the difference between the dynamic pressure generated when the oncoming air rams directly into a tube and the static outside pressure. The difference is read out on the airspeed indicator in mph or knots.
The exact type of pitot tube you use is unimportant as long as it is accurate and easy to install. However, it should be noted that most pitot systems take their dynamic pressure from a tube out on the wing, while the static pressure can come from a variety of sources.
The most reliably successful static port installation on the Bearhawk comes from plumbing a small port on each side of the aft part of the fuselage.
The most popular pitot tube is the L-shaped tube that attaches to an aluminum or steel mast that mounts close to the wing spar. The RV guys have provided us with lots of shopping options. Pick one you like and follow its mounting instructions. See the photo for an example of a reinforcing doubler.

ADS-B For Three Sigma

Source: 2016 Q3 Beartracks Russ Erb
Do I Need ADS-B?
A lot has been written lately about ADS-B. It’s all over the aviation press, but do you care? If you currently fly an airplane without a transponder, you probably don’t. You may skip to the next article. It’s okay. I won’t mind.
The FAA has mandated that as of 1 January 2020, all aircraft flying in airspace that currently requires a transponder will be required to be equipped with ADS-B Out. In case you’ve forgotten, that’s basically within 30 nautical miles of a Class B airport, inside Class C airspace, or anywhere above 10,000 feet MSL except below 2500 AGL. Only ADS-B Out will be required. ADS-B In is completely optional, but won’t have full functionality without ADS-B Out. In short, the ground towers will not transmit traffic data to you unless the tower is pinged by your ADS-B Out. Otherwise it won’t know you are there. Learn more at one of the many online resources, such as http://www.freeflightsystems.com/ads-b-university or the Air Safety Institute online course “ADS B for General Aviation” on the AOPA website.
Why Did I Choose To Equip Now?
Well, it certainly wasn’t because of the FAA’s recently announced rebate program. That wasn’t announced until after my installation was complete.
A minor reason for installation was to save money. I was paying a monthly subscription to XM to receive weather in the cockpit. Living in the desert of Southern California, this was very cost-ineffective, as about the only time there was any weather to display was on the trip to Oshkosh. ADS-B In provides free in-cockpit weather (FIS-B), but only when airborne. Much like VORs, the signal from the transmitting towers is blocked by ground clutter unless you are close to the tower. That was okay, because on the ground Foreflight can receive weather as long as it has a cell phone signal.
My primary reason for installing ADS-B now is that I am afraid of mid-air collisions with traffic I never saw. I have good reason to be concerned about this. Since I started flying in 1989, my success rate in seeing other aircraft in flight, whether identified by someone else on board or called out by ATC, is well below 50 percent. I have flown all the way from Southern California to Oshkosh and back and never seen another airplane outside of the traffic pattern. I know I wasn’t the only one flying at the time. One year flying into Copperstate I saw an airplane through the right side window flying away from me—after passing uncomfortably close right below me. I never saw him coming and I bet he never saw me. I decided that it was worth the money to get better traffic info to lower my stress level when flying. ADS-B In was relatively cheap by comparison, but by itself was not much better than nothing. It would show you the traffic that had already equipped with ADS-B Out, but not the thousands others that hadn’t. For full functionality of ADS-B In, I had to have ADS-B Out to ping the towers to show the Mode C only traffic. It’s still not a perfect solution, but it is the best available.
The Easy Way
If you haven’t started installing your avionics and you haven’t built any antenna mounts on your fuselage yet, you have it easy. You can pick any ADS-B solution available and modify your aircraft as needed to install the equipment. Easy peasy.
The Hard Way
In my case, I had to do it the hard way. I had to modify an existing installation in a flyable airplane. This was not as simple as sliding out one avionics box and sliding in another. There are some ADS-B Out solutions that are intended to be simple add-ons to work with your existing transponder. These are typically 978 UAT boxes, and, while I didn’t check, I assumed they would need their own antennas added to the airplane. On a sheet metal fuselage, that can be as simple as drilling a new hole in the skin and adding the antenna. However, the Bearhawk is a fabric covered fuselage. You can’t mount an antenna on just fabric. All of the antennas currently on my fuselage have their own special antenna mount built up from the fuselage under the fabric. For me, any system requiring an additional antenna was immediately rejected.
Prior to the ADS-B install, my primary panel mounted navigator was a Garmin GNS-480, the rebranded version of the UPSAT CNX-80. This was a WAAS capable GPS, but it needed a software update to allow an ADS-B transmitter to recognize it as a valid position source. Garmin had claimed to be working on an update for years, but it was a low priority. This update was finally released in 2015, and its release was part of my decision to do the upgrade now. The upgrade was easy, taking about 15 minutes at the avionics shop with the box still in the airplane.
My existing transponder was a Garmin GTX-327. It was in perfect working order, but was not upgradeable to serve as an ADS-B transmitter. As for somewhere that would display ADS-B In data, I had two choices. I had a Garmin Aera 510 mounted to the panel that had previously been used to display XM weather. I also had an iPad mini mounted to the panel running Foreflight.
ADS-B Out Selection
My intent was to pick an upgrade path that worked with as much of my existing equipment as possible. For ADS-B Out, the Garmin GNS-480 received the required software update. For the transmitter, I decided to replace the Garmin GTX-327 transponder with a Garmin GTX-330ES. There were other transponders available, and some were cheaper. I decided to go with the GTX-330ES because the front panel was identical to the GTX-327 that I had, which would minimize any relearning to use it. While the front panel looked identical, it was not a simple swap. The tray for the GTX-330ES was about 4 inches longer than the tray for the GTX-327. Thus, the trays had to be swapped, which required some modifications behind the panel. The wiring for the transponders was not identical, so I had to get Approach Fast Stack to make me a new cable from the hub to the transponder. The deal was sweetened, as Approach Fast Stack gave me a nice trade-in credit on the GTX-327, as they have a healthy demand for GTX-327 transponders in some other common installations.
ADS-B In Selection
Again, the easiest solution was to use as much of my existing equipment as possible. I could get the Garmin GDL-39 which would display on the Aera 510. I could also get the Stratus 2S which would display on the iPad mini in Foreflight. I chose the latter because the iPad screen was larger and had a better resolution. The Stratus 2S is a dual-band receiver, so it receives air-to-air ADS-B signals directly on both 1090 and 978 Mhz. It will also receive traffic (TIS-B) on either frequency and weather (FIS-B) on 978 MHz. I avoid depending on battery power when I can (I’ve had range anxiety since childhood), so I mounted the Stratus 2S under the panel and wired it into ship’s power, using the same cigarette lighter socket and dual USB charger that powers the iPad. The Stratus is set up to turn on when power is applied and turns itself off within 2 minutes of losing external power if the sensed ground speed is zero. Because the Stratus is under the panel, its internal antennas may be blocked. I placed a remote GPS antenna on the glareshield under the windshield where the XM weather antenna had been. I mounted a remote ADS-B antenna on a mount on the left interior wall by the rear seat. The mount is attached to the stiffener tube that comes out of the left sidewall. This may seem like an odd place to place an antenna in a steel fuselage cage, but it was the largest opening I could find that was accessible. It must work, as I have picked up ADS-B towers as far as 100 nautical miles away.
Testing
Since I had changed out the transponder, my transponder certification (14CFR 91.413) was obviously invalidated. I took the airplane to our local avionics shop, and while certifying the transponder he also confirmed that the ADS-B Out signal was transmitting properly. He also fixed some of the settings that I had wrong due to ignorance.
After having the system checked out, I flew the airplane with the system turned on. After the flight, I went to http://www.faa.gov/nextgen/programs/adsb/ and sent the FAA an e-mail with the requested in-formation. They went into their records and very quickly sent back a test report showing that my system was working properly.
Sure enough, it turns out there are airplanes out there that I never see. At least now I have a better chance of finding them, and even if I don’t, I can use the display to be sure I avoid the traffic.
Even so, it’s still important to look out the window. I saw a Cessna pass in front of me a mile or less away and it never showed up on the traffic display. I suspect he had no transponder or it wasn’t on. Those airplanes won’t show up on any traffic system other than your eyeball.
If my panel looks different than yours, that’s because it is. I increased the height of the panel by 2.4 inches to get all of the stuff in. I also increased the height of the firewall to keep a straight line from the nose bowl to the spinner. That also means my windshield is cut different, and on, and on, and on…
img_3323

Engraved Panel Art

Source: 2015 Q4 Beartracks
Builders Eric and Brent of Charlotte NC send this photo of an engraved plate they made to decorate their Bearhawk project. Most of their initial fabrication work is complete, and now they’ll disassemble the airframe and prepare for covering, paint, and final assembly. Readers may recall the article about their all-metal Bearhawk from earlier this year.
15q4zh

Kevin’s Pitot Tips

Source: 2001 Beartracks

Kevin Deutscher offered up these comments about installing a pitot system in your Bearhawk:

The Art of Pitot Tubing does have a few constants that should be observed for best results. The items outlined here are framed with the Bearhawk in mind, applicability to other aircraft is by hit or miss.

1. Locate the pitot tube and the static port at the same wing mounted location.

2. Locate the mast at the leading edge outboard of the flap / aileron junction. (Flap extension does back air up under the wing increasing local pressures causing a change in airflow around the front of the wing.) Note: there will be an induced error when turning due to the different velocity of the wings. This is a bigger effect than you might think; however, mount in too close to the prop arc and that becomes interesting also.

3. The mast should extend as a minimum 18 inches in front of the wing LE. Underwing locations ala Cessna and Piper work poorly on a flat bottomed airfoil.

4. The static ports should be 4 holes ( start at about .040 Dia ) located radially to the mast. 90 deg spacing. Holes should have orientation with the 1st hole at the 45 deg position. Holes drilled into a common plenum. ( minimizes pitch and yaw effects ) Holes should be located in an annulus or behind a stepped cut of about .030 deep.

5. Tubing runs should be of good practice, large sweeps, slope to low point. no leaks, constant tubing size, no fitting restrictions.

6. The Pitot hole is magic, hole should be round, square to the airstream and have sharp edges ID and OD. Size does make a difference. Consult with the mfg. of your airspeed indicator, the speed range of the aircraft does affect to a small degree the hole size and system accuracy.

7. Lots of little things do add up.

All for now, back to the 110 temps.

Kevin Bearhawk- #272 – Phoenix, AZ

Thanks for the information Kevin, keep cool out there.

Certification Pitot Tubes

Source: 2000 Beartracks
Here are a few photos that I have taken of certification Pitot Tubes. The top photo is the unit used to certify the RANS S7.



The two photos below are of the Gavilan Pitot – Static system on the prototype from several years ago. Both systems incorporated a universal joint and were 100% statically balanced. While not practical for permanent use (unless you want to guard it during fly-ins all the time) they do hold a lot of Gee-Whiz appeal. The Pitot inlet on these certification units was one half to two thirds forward relative to the chord of the wing from the leading edge.



Bob’s Method for Boot Cowl Fabrication

Source: 1998 Beartracks, Bob Barrows

The boot cowl is the sheet metal installed on the fuselage from the firewall back to the instrument panel and station P-B.

We use .025 2024T3 Alclad for the top and side sections an .032 5052H-32 for the bottom section which is called the tunnel.

The tunnel serves two functions – both to act as the bottom skin of the boot cowl and to allow an efficient flow path for the exhaust cooling air from the engine.

Install the firewall and the instrument panel before beginning the boot cowl or the tunnel.

The tunnel is made to fit between the firewall cutout (see drawing #18) and the T3 former shown on drawing 16 Sta B-P. Tabs are welded on this former in about 8 locations as needed to attach the tunnel and the cowl side skin that wrap down around the bottom of the fuselage to meet the tunnel.

The boot cowl and tunnel are held in place by using plate nuts (#6 or #8) and screws. Clip or Tinnerman Nuts and screws were used to attach at station B-P .032 side formers (see drawing #16). Use a 3″ spacing on your screws.

Making The Tunnel

This part is somewhat difficult to make, I usually have to do it twice before I get a good one.

You will need to use a bending brake, a hand seamer and some method to shrink the back edge a little. First bend as shown using a bending brake.

The side skins are attached to the tunnel as shown below.

The top skins are attached to the side skins as shown below.

The top skin is approximately 28″ wide across the top of the firewall and at the instrument panel.

Dimple the top and side skins and use flush head screws to attach to the firewall.

Holes are cut in the top skin to accommodate the T14 fuselage tubes. The skin is slit from these holes to the firewall to allow for installation.

1997 Beartracks Mailbag, Q&A with Bob

Source: 1997 Beartracks, Bob Barrows

The mailbag has been stuffed the last few months. A lot of good progress has been made by several builders who want to pass along information. A lot of questions about different powerplants are being raised about everything from Fords to Chevys to turbines and everything in between.

Bob,

I’ve been thinking of using a Turbo-Prop engine in my BEARHAWK. Turbomach T62 t401c1 (Solar) of 225 SHP available new surplus @$4750. However I need to find a matching gear reduction unit (PRSU) for approximately 2.5 or 3 to 1 reduction and constant speed prop unit. I haven’t been able to work out the details yet but I will make engine and cost comparisons this winter and work on the installation problems too.

I am somewhat familiar with turbine engine conversions as I assisted in a COX TURBINE OTTER conversion in Seattle, WA and have 30 years experience as an aeronautical engineer with Boeing.

My hope is that a turbine combination will result in lowest empty weight for maximum performance at similar cost compared to the Franklin 220 and Lycoming choices.

Paul Hubble – #126 – Deer Park, WA

A letter off the net –

I finished building a Murphy rebel in April of this year. I now have 60 hours on it and it flies real nice. Out here in the west (Barstow, CA) density altitude is a problem. I decided to build the BEARHAWK to get a little more room and also a larger engine. Right now I am leaning toward an auto conversion by Belted Air Power, of Las Vegas. They use brand new Chevy V6 engines and sell a complete firewall forward package for the RV-6 for $8000. We looked at it at Copperstate and liked it. It puts out 225 hp and uses a belt drive reduction. Bob Barrows was right in one of the newsletters when he said not to worry about the engine until it is necessary. I learned that from the Rebel, I rushed into buying a Lycoming O-235 and now everyone is using O-320’s.

I have started building ailerons and flaps. I got to the point where I needed
spars. There has been some concern lately about purchasing spars and I thought you all might like to know what I did. We have a heating/sheet metal shop in town. I took two sets of .032 blanks to the shop with the spar drawings and described what I needed. I now have four spars and the trailing edges all for $80 in labor. They did a nice job but I had to educate them in using 2024-T3. No sharp bends or scratches. I had them look at the information in the newsletter on bending the spar webs and trailing edges. I think it would be worth looking in to for other builders.

Rich Bartman- #18 – Newberry Springs, CA

Bob,

Could you give me the phone number and address for the manufacturer/supplier of the square section coiled springs for the undercarriage.

Also included are a few photos taken a little while ago. I am now preparing to skin the starboard wing.

Ray Thurston – New Zealand

Ray,

Thanks for the letter and the photographs of your wing and fuel tanks. They both look real good.

The springs for the landing gear are made by three different U.S. companies that I know of. Dayton, Dieco, and Danly. Use the Dayton spring if you can, the part number is EH 200-800.

Dayton Progress Corp – 500 Progress Rd – Dayton, 0H 45449-0039 – USA Ph-513/859-5111.

The springs should be about $40 each.

All builders are invited to send in photos of your progress for publication in Bear-Tracks. – Bob.

Bob,

Enclosed please find a check for another year of Bear-Tracks. I show one more issue left on my current subscription. I have begun construction on my BEARHAWK and I have a few questions I am hoping you could address. How critical are minor scratches in aluminum parts? Is there a way to fix this? Do you recommend priming all parts before assembly? What is the best way to measure rivet spacing on ribs (for fluting purposes). And one last question, what method is recommended for cutting aluminum plate? Thanks for a great design and all of your help.

Kirk Urbanczy – #166 – Palm Springs, CA

Kirk,

Thank you for your newsletter renewal, please note that subscriptions for the newsletter run from year to year, not the date of purchase of the plans. Regarding your questions:

Keep the aluminum as scratch free as you can. Scratches you can feel with your fingernail should be sanded with 400 grit sandpaper till smooth. Priming all aluminum parts separate is best but you need only to prime the spar pieces before riveting together. Measure rivet spacing according to information on the drawings and flute half way between each rivet. Once one rib is done it can be used as a template for the others. Cut aluminum plate .062 and thicker by sawing or shearing, .050 and thinner can be cut with large duck bill tin snips.

Bob

Bob,

I like your advice on things like cargo doors and more fuel tanks, I will opt to do none of them. I am plans #198 and have all of my ribs just about finished. Thanks for a great set of plans.

Larry Mader – #198- Spearfish, SD

Bob,

Don’t feel bad about not providing a materials list. John Thorp didn’t provide one for the T-18 and he finally told the builders that all of his time was spent on designing, drawings, etc. and it was something he couldn’t get to. So you see – life repeats itself right?

I have to build a house before I start my BEARHAWK but I will do a list if someone doesn’t do it first.

Here’s a tip from the book The All Metal Airplane perhaps you might want to pass it along to the builders. “When working on sheets of aluminum
staple corrugated cardboard to the surface of your bench. The little aluminum particles will fall into the corrugations and will not scratch your sheets. ”

Donald Schindler A&P – #68- Madison, WI

Bob,

Last week I sold my French wood project Yodel DR315. I had to work really hard to sell it so I have not done much on my BEARHAWK. I am trying to sort out some paperwork before I pay and ask Swedish EAA chapter about the building licence. I have to ask you some questions:

1- What about the formblocks for ribs that go inside the spar (see drawing) should I take away a little bit on formblock?

2- For welding in Sweden EAA chapter 222 we have to test for it, then we get a license for 6 months. I have spoke to one boy who has got a license and it looks not easy, even if you have got experience. Do you know anything about the ready build frames for the BEARHAWK? Quality on welds, price and so on?

Thanks for interesting Newsletters and hang on with God Speed and Quality Bob!

Sune Larsson – #172 – Gislaved, SWEDEN

Sune,

Thank you for your letter, regarding your questions,

The rib shape at the spar interface does require some modification to your formblock. I have put a jog in the rib flange as shown in the drawings by slightly undercutting the formblock as you stated.

I am currently building up another set of wings to see if the wing skins will fit up well without the jog. So far everything looks good. Look for more information in upcoming newsletters.

It is best that you weld your airframe together, as the U.S.A. suppliers are not set up yet. A&E is no longer offering BEARHAWK parts as he is trying to get out of the business. One option you might explore is to tack weld your fuselage together and pay someone, skilled in aircraft welding, to come in and weld it up for you. If you have the airplane tack welded together it should take no more than 30 – 40 hours for a skilled welder to do it for you. Check with your EAA chapter to see if this is legal in your country.

Bob

Bob,

First of all belated “Happy New Year” to you and yours. I hope yours was a most blessed Christmas. Ours was! Among other things, we were blessed with over 8 feet of snow! You have probably heard of the roofs caving in from lack of shovelling.

Said shovelling is what has occupied most of my fall and winter. Aside from a terminally short memory, it is my only excuse for not having renewed my subscription. Enclosed herewith is the required U.S. funds along with a request to bring me up to date.

Progress with this project has only been fair. I have all the rigs made, stiffened, primed with angles riveted in place. A tip for others is offered: Selecting appropriately sized short ends of pipe and bevelling in a lathe made the punch to press the edges of lighting holes into the matching recesses cut into the wood rib former resulting in a very smooth, stiffened rib. I cut the recess in the rib form with the same circle cutter in the drill press but used a specially sharpened tool bit. Keeping everything concentric was easy using the same sized 3/16″ jig pin hole into which torx drive screwdrivers (for one thing) fit perfectly for alignment! For pressing, I used a Dake arbor press with a clamped down work piece. The rings used to clamp the rib flat around the outside of the circle were large ball bearing races that are fairly common.

I encountered considerable disappointment with my first spar. I am now awaiting new material to build another (as I unwittingly only ordered half enough the first time). For a first time builder I could have used a lot more tips to avoid a lot of mistakes. I found that the cap strips moved considerably as I progressively riveted them on. The result was a lot of clean-up drilling of holes and too many epitrochoidal shaped holes reminiscent of a rotary Wankel engine! The killer was a preacher friend who lives some 90 miles away but who has experience building an RV-6. His critique was devastating and I nearly gave up. Fortunately I have some very loving and supportive family members who encouraged me onward. One was a sweet 20 year old step-daughter (Miss Creston 1993) who said “Don’t give up, I want to fly that thing when you’ve got it done.” Hey, how could I quit, eh?

I have all the steel I need and lots to do, but other loved ones need attention too. One in his rush to meet the growing demand for gas-heat and another who decided to build a new house in August. He is moving in this weekend. So it has been a busy but blessed time. My friend in Arizona calls every now and again to tell me how nice it is down there. I think he still has his Stearman and is nearly finished with his MonoCoach fuselage that I worked on with him last winter down there. He is still contemplating a BEARHAWK but can’t seem to justify a fifth aircraft to his wife. I told him to be more assertive. She about threw me out!

With the snow having caved in a local hanger on a 182, 1 just might have a line on a engine, some avionics and some other parts. We are dickering! Have a Great year!

Rod Dressel – #190 Creston,BC, Canada

Rod,

Thanks for the interesting update on your project. I hope the construction of the BEARHAWK is going more smoothly for you now. You are lucky to have such a supportive family during your building process.

I just built another set of spars and do not remember any problems with the holes, but I decided to revisit that in this issue of BEAR-TRACKS in case any other builders are having problems.

Our banks charge $12 to cash a foreign bank check even if it is in US funds like you sent. Please send an international money order or cash in the future.

BOB

Bob,

Moving right along beating out ribs on #164. 1 have a few questions that I could not find the answer to after studying the drawings.


  • What is the thickness of the material for ribs 3 and 4 (the short ones behind the fuel tank)? .032

  • What is the thickness of the material for the flap ribs? .025

  • What is the thickness of the material for the aileron ribs? .025

Thanks,

Russ Erb – #164 – Edwards, CA

Russ,

Sorry that info was not on the plans. I have now added that information to the plans. Thanks for your questions.

BOB

Bob,

I have just been doing a cable run check in the wings prior to putting them to one side to start on the fuselage.

I had previously checked the aileron cables before skinning but I did not have the flaps in place at that stage. Now I find that the flap push rod in about mid-position just makes contact with the cable in this area.

1) Could a fairlead be positioned in this area to give, say, 1/4″ cable clearance with the push rod? The cable should not be more than 2° – 3° from straight.

2) One other thing is the flap actuating lever attached to the 3/4″ torque tube at rib #1, 1 have positioned this lever as per your drawing N. 14, it would seem that the aileron cable passing through the fairlead at rib #1 may touch the end of this arm.

Would you please advise me on these points so that I may proceed with the project.

Regards,

Ray Thurston #005 – NEW ZEALAND

Ray,

I hope the wing building process went well for you, I think you will really enjoy building the fuselage as you will have something that will look like an airplane soon!

Regarding your questions, 1) The aileron cable touching the flap push rod is not serious, the fairlead in this area would be a good idea though, I have noticed this same situation in the prototype. I am considering installation of a plastic sleeve on either the push rod or along 8″ of the cable to stop a metal to metal rub on the prototype.

2) The actuating arm at the end of the torque tube may be shortened enough to eliminate any interference with the aileron cable.

Good Luck – Bob

Tom Yeomans #75 – Richland MI gave us a call at the shop to order the new strut material and report that he has his wings just about done and his basic fuselage welded up ready for its gear.

Hello Bob,

Hope this finds you and your family well!

S/N 52 and 53 going together slow but sure. We will be skinning wings in a few weeks.

Sorry, but I let my Bear-Tracks lapse – my last issue was October 1996. Could you please start me up at the next one after that? Thanks! Please send me a set of the Disogrin Rings. Check enclosed to cover the newsletter and rings.

I have a few questions :

1) Where do you pick up your static pressure for instruments?

2) Is the bottom skin (tip to #5 rib) .025 or .032? It is not on the plans but I had a bug that it was .032?

3) From the newsletter illustrating skinning was not clear as to which way the step on the bottom of the front spar goes, bottom skin on top or vice versa?

4) Do you know of any adverse characteristics of using A-10 warthog style wing tips?

Thanks, Be Well,

Douglas Jasper #53 – Corona, Ca.

Douglas,

Your newsletters to date and Disogrin rings are on their way. In answer to your questions,

1) I did not run a separate static line to the outside, take a look at production aircraft similar to the BEARHAWK (Maule, Cessna 180, Super Cub) to get an idea as to where to place one. You may also check out Tony’s books for more information on this subject.

2) The skin you mention is. 025 thick in that area.

3) You can attach the skin either way but the best sequence is as I have illustrated (in sketch #2 note the riveting sequence for ease of bucking rivets):

4)That style of wingtip should be OK – keep it light!

Good Luck – Bob

Bob, I have a few questions you may be able to answer before you head for Oshkosh:

1) Stringers; Your drawings show 1″ x 1/4″ x .032. All I can find here at present is 5/8″ x 5/16″ x .032. Would they be strong enough?

2) Are there any pulleys or fairleads required in the trim cable system?

3) How do you access the trim shaft bearings in the tailplane for lubrication after the fabric is on?

4) Do you bother drilling the airframe tubing to flush linseed oil through after welding?

5) The rudder horn for the tailwheel chain/SPring have no details given, just match up with the horn on the tailwheel?

6) The streamline tube strut stabilizer to fuselage, how do you provide for adjustment if the angle of incidence requires altering?

Regards – Ray Thurston #005 – NEW ZEALAND

Ray,

I am starting to get a lot of questions about the fuselage now. I assume lot of the builders are done with their wings and tail feathers and are starting on the fuselages. Regarding your questions

1) The stringer material that you spec out is OK as long as you use extra stand offs as needed. 1 x 1/4″ wood is OK also.

2) I am using two fair leads on fuselage center-line top at station M and station J.

3) No access on the prototype, shafts and bushings. I epoxy painted and greased on assembly. No problems to date.

4) No. Keep tubes welded airtight or protect inside of tubes. You may drill as you described if you want.

5) Builders choice to match with tail wheel used.

6) Rework end of streamline tubing as needed for fit.

Thanks for your questions and keep in touch. ~Bob

Hi Bob, Construction has started on #238. The newsletters are a priceless complement to the drawings. I’m starting as recommended with the wings. I have some questions maybe you could help me with, so that when I get to these points, I don’t have to sit around and ponder.

1) I have access to some 2024T3 .040. I was thinking of using this for the main spar web. I tried bending some test pieces in a brake and found that a 3/8″ radius provides a very nice bend. I realize it will make the spar slightly heavier but, maybe a bit stronger. Eventually I plan to put my BEARHAWK on floats. Having flown hundreds of hours on floats I know what kind of punishment an airframe can be subjected to! Would .040 2024T3 be acceptable for the main spar web?

2) From what I can see in the plans and the newsletters, the lightening holes in the spar web do not have flanges, is this correct?

3) Spar strips (cap strips) in the plans call for 1/8″ 2024T3. I can get 1/8″ x 1 1/2″angle 2024T351 to cut up. “T3” is heat treated and then cold worked. I am uncertain what the “51” stands for. Is this material OK?

Having studied the blueprints closely I find there should be very little to stumble on. You’ve done a very nice job. This is going to be a fun project!!

Dave Hiebert #238 – Alberta, CANADA

Dave,

Thank you for you kind comments about the plans. I think you will really enjoy building the BEARHAWK. Regarding your questions

1) .040 for the spar web will work fine but a minimum .140 bend radius is required in order to not stress the material to cracking.

2) Yes – no flanges are required.

3) The 2024T351 will work fine in this area. “T351” = solution heat treated, stress relieved, stretched, cold worked. Where is your supplier and what is the cost? Other builders may be interested in your area. Good luck and keep us updated as to your progress! ~ Bob

Mr. Barrows,

I want to thank you for your hospitality and the time that you took to show me “The BEARHAWK”. Having the opportunity to see the aircraft both finished and under construction was a great help. Being able to see the straight forward approach to fabrication of detail parts and the uncomplicated assembly set me at ease that everything was indeed as advertised and well thought out.

I have begun to to fabricate all the form blocks for the wing components and have found the plans to be very clear and accurate. On the few occasions that something seemed out of place all I had to do was study the plans a little closer to find out why and then correct the error in my ways. I have helped others with “Kit Aircraft” and found the plans not accurate or clear.

Again, my thanks.

I will want the wing struts when available. Updates to follow as I progress.

Kevin Deutscher #272 – Phoenix, AZ

Bob,

Thank you for letting my wife and I come down and look at the BEARHAWK. I learned quite a bit and realized that it is even more of the aircraft that I want, than I thought it was by looking at the plans. Now I just need to get busy and finish the house so I can start on it. I have a 48′ x 60′ hanger beside my house and I need to get it insulated before winter so I can work on my BEARHAWK full time this winter.

If you know anyone that would be interested in my 1956 Cessna 172, give them my phone number – it will help finance my BEARHAWK.

I am really looking forward to the next issue of the newsletter – which I think is excellent.

Dan Riffee #267 – Elizabeth, WV 304/275-0976

Bob,

While visiting you a month or so ago you showed me a device that you used to insure correct alignment of the nose ribs. Could you send me a sketch of that device? That method seems a lot easier than the running a wire through the ribs. I also have some questions.

1) On drawing #14 no attachment method is shown for connecting the 1/8″ flap cable to the inboard flap lever. Could you suggest a suitable method?

2) When connecting the 1/8″ cables to the bellcranks (drawing #11) is a clevis pin through the shackle and turnbuckle OK or should a bolt be used?

3) Also could you confirm that in drawing #14 that the flap lever is shown in the position full up flaps?

Thank you

Tim Neal #209 – Uniontown, PA

Tim,

Below is a sketch of the device that I used on the latest set of BEARHAWK wings that I am building.

Regarding your questions,

1) Use a cable shackle

2) Clevis pin or bolt is OK.

3) The drawing shows the flaps in the full up position.

Keep in touch. ~Bob

Builder Update

Below is a photo of #075 – Tom Yeomans’ project. As you can see he has his wings done as well as most of his fuselage! Thanks for the photo Tom!

Home Made Pitot Tube

Source: 1996 Beartracks, Bob Barrows

Picture of Pitot tube mounting fitting (Brass Tee) 3.8″ x .035 aluminum (hard) tube is theaded to 1/8″ pipe on one end and screws into fitting shown. Fitting through hole in wing leading edge skin and protrudes about 8″ – 10″.


Photo of routing of 1/4″ plastic tubing from Pitot tube fitting to wing root. Grommets may be used where the plastic tubing goes through the ribs.

New GPS for N942VT

Source: 2012 Q1 Beartracks, Dave Lenart, Bearhawk N942VT
ifly GPSI had to make a decision about a new GPS for Victor Tango, since the one I installed during the build had become obsolete. I had originally installed a Lowrance 2000C in my panel and had it perfectly mounted next to my Dynon EFIS, nice job if I do say so myself. I really like the Lowrance and have used it with great success; even on our trip to OSH last year the little unit did a wonderful job of keeping Laura and I on the red line drawn on the chart. Very shortly after I purchased the unit Lowrance made the corporate decision not to support their line of aviation GPS units any longer. What this means for those of us with the unit is that there are no updates available and as airspace and airports change it will gradually become less and less accurate. So the search was on for an upgrade, but which one? There are many choices out there and opinions differ from the tried and true Garmin units to the latest in IPad applications. I almost went with the IPad along with the WingX program, I know some pilot friends that like the setup. But I thought it might be actually too large and cumbersome in the Bearhawk, especially being a stick airplane. I’m sure there are some good ways to use or mount the IPad, but it wasn’t for me. The Garmin units are always good but I’ve never liked the small screen size of the 496 style unit and the six and seven series units are a big chunk of cash, although again I know they have their faithful for good reasons. Last summer at OSH I wandered by one booth in the “B” building that had a huge crowd of people around it every time I tried to get close, it was the Adventure Pilot folks that were demonstrating their IFly 700 GPS. It’s based on a large touch screen with GPS information overlaid on a sectional chart. The screen itself is 6” wide by 3 ¾” tall, the unit is about an inch bigger than that overall. Since last summer they have upgraded to the IFly 720 which adds to the original a sunlight readable screen, wireless update capability and road navigation function so you can use it in the truck on the way home. Now, I know everyone has their favorites and so be it, I am also not advertising for the Adventure Pilot company in any way but just giving my opinion on this GPS with the hope that it may help someone else who is gathering information prior to their purchase, so don’t get all offended anyone but I really like it. I say this a little surprised myself because for the first couple of flights I hated it! Well, that’s a little strong, but I was so used to my old simple screen that the sectional overlay seemed like just too much information. That, and the inevitable learning curve of any new device with its differences, some intuitive some not. But overall I am very pleased with this GPS unit. Why?
1/ The screen size is excellent. There’s plenty of real estate to look at and the zoom function makes it so that you can focus in on a small area with great detail. I was at first disappointed with the fact that the unit is only oriented in landscape without the option to rotate to portrait but the company says there will be a downloadable upgrade soon to accommodate that. For my panel it will work better vertical and I’ll mount it flat on the plate I made when the download is accomplished. Within the system you can select an optional screen that gets rid of the sectional and gives you a greatly simplified screen if so desired.
2/ Charts. The unit came pre programmed with all U.S. charts and the upgrades are easily made wirelessly by connecting at a wireless zone. As you fly along the next chart automatically scrolls under the plane icon. This will be great for long cross countries or if you live on the edge of a chart somewhere.
3/ Street navigation. This function has been nice to have, so much so that I cancelled my OnStar subscription in the GMC. I don’t take the GPS out of the plane after each flight, but if we’re going on a road trip or I’m going to an unfamiliar job it comes out easily and mounts in the truck via a Ram suction mount.
4/ Price. Here’s the kicker. The unit cost $749. I call that a deal considering its capability and the fact that it can be connected to an ADSB receiver for weather and traffic down the road.
ifly GPS mountThe picture shows the mount I made using parts of a Ram mount and a plate to cover the existing hole for the Lowrance, it works good for now but after the portrait download is made I’ll be able to mount it flat on the panel again. There is no external antenna and I’ve not lost signal so far within 100 km of my home airport at Lebanon NH. There are lots of neat features like full airport information available by holding your finger on the airport in question for a second or two but you can find out more on their web site if you wish. Laura and I will be heading over to the Maine coast soon for some ‘lobsta’ and I feel better about having an updated GPS.