Bearhawk Patrol Glider Tug Called “Lucy” Follow Up, Altitude Record

Source: 2020 Q3 Beartracks, Alan Arthur, Doug Harrington and Avon Furphy

Eighteen months have gone by down in Australia and Lucy has completed almost 100 hours and 85 glider tows.

Initially the Mazda 13B rotary engine was naturally aspirated and although the performance with around 180 – 200 HP was more than satisfactory for normal flying the performance towing a 600kg (1322 pounds) glider on a 40 degree Celsius day was not spectacular.
Early on we had a problem when the engine started to consume excessive amounts of oil, there were no leaks and the exhaust was not wet and oily, what was happening was that the engine runs so hot that the oil leaking into the combustion chamber was being burnt as additional fuel. At the same time the air fuel ratio indicator was showing an erratic mixture that could not be corrected by adjustments to the fuel map. Hindsight is a wonderful thing and now we know what causes erratic mixtures.
The engine had to be removed and the rotor oil seals replaced, on a Mazda rotary that means a complete strip down. The opportunity was taken while the engine was out to fit a standard Mazda turbo charger. That sounds simple but was anything but. The engine bay configuration and the engine mount necessitated a quite radical custom installation.

Starting with the fabrication of an exhaust manifold that placed the turbo charger behind the engine in a spot that was previously occupied by dual batteries and a few other accessories.
The batteries had to be moved to the rear fuselage to compensate for the anticipated additional weight forward of the C of G.
The exhaust system and mufflers had to be completely reworked.


The turbocharger needed to be restricted to a boost pressure of no more than 6 psi, the standard turbo engine had low compression rotors; ours had high compression rotors and the advice was that this combination of high compression rotors and high boost pressure would cause seal and pinging problems. The waste gate controller was modified so that it was producing a maximum of 5.6 psi.
The next area for rework was the intake manifold and throttle body. Space was a limiting factor, so the standard manifold was cut and welded to keep the intake system as low as possible and oriented in the easiest direction for the plumbing connections.


Space constraints dictated that an intercooler could not be fitted and was probably not necessary with the low boost pressure.

First engine runs proved to be very positive, boost pressure was spot on and manifold pressure was up to 42” at static rpm. Fuel flows had gone up considerably from around 35 liters per hour to 50 l/hr (9.2 gph to 13 gph).
One of our original problems before the turbo was having to run the ground adjustable prop in the full fine position to achieve acceptable RPM in climb. After the turbocharger was fitted, we had to increase the pitch to limit the RPM.
Glider towing times before the turbocharger were in the order to 9 minutes to 2000ft chock to chock towing a 600kg glider; after the turbo the times are in the order of 6 minutes. Lucy’s tow times now closely match the times that are produced by a Piper Pawnee. Our estimate is that Lucy is producing around 240HP
Thirty hours have been completed with the turbo with no problems of any kind. One of the most common problems with auto engines in aircraft is cooling and particularly during taxi and ground operations; our dual radiators and double sized oil cooler have proved to be up to the additional heat produced by the turbo.
Where to next? With the turbo charger the obvious question is how high will it go? When the ideal day came round, a clear blue sky and almost zero wind at any altitude it was time to borrow an oxygen system from the gliding club and see how high Lucy could climb.
A couple of practice climbs to 12500 ft and 15000 ft on previous days sorted out the radiator expansion tank problems and then a full throttle climb to 22000ft answered that question. Lucy’s operation ceiling is around 22000ft where the climb rate fell to around 100 ft/min. The Mazda rotary engine performed faultlessly and even picked up RPM as she climbed, no doubt due to reduced prop drag at higher altitudes. The real limiting factor is the pilot, not only do you need a good supply of oxygen the -38C outside air temperature means you need a good heater or very warm clothing.




What next, more glider towing and cross-country flights experimenting with prop pitch and cruising RPM with an aim to reach an economical cruise consumption.

Winter 2020 Builder Update from Rob Caldwell

Source: 2020 Q1 Beartracks, Rob Caldwell
21 Month Build Update


It’s March of 2020 and I wanted to share an update on the build status of my Bearhawk 4 Place (N6408C). I’m pretty sure I could be further along than I am if it weren’t for all the “distractions” I elected to pursue. I call them distractions, but really, I made some choices to do a few things differently.
I took delivery of my kit on June 1, 2018 and spend an average of 3 hours a day building. I built a rotisserie for the fuselage and that has been a tremendous help. If you’ve seen my YouTube videos you know I’m working in a long narrow (cramped) 2 car tandem garage that is
attached to my home. Super convenient for maximum building time. And I really don’t mind the tight quarters at all.
What I did differently:
• Lowered the two middle stand offs and stringers at the top of the cabin. This flattens the sky light and removes the Bearhawk “hump”
• Raised both door thresholds by 3”. I will be installing gullwing doors
• Modified the upper and lower door pieces that came with the kit to create the gullwing door frame
• Tilted the instrument panel 30 degrees forward for easier visibility. (Confirmed that this would not increase glare from the flat screen Dynon EFIS / PFD & AviDyne WAAS navigator)
• Also, hinged the instrument panel so it tilts back during the build. The panel cannot hinge after the control cables are installed.
• Using the SolidWorks CAD program (free for EAA members), I designed a control cable offset block mounted to the panel that will allow the controls to continue to operate at the intended 90 degree angle to Station B
• Fabricated a control cable mount for the parking brake, alt air & and cabin heat controls
• Cast in place a carbon fiber plenum for the top of the IO-540 engine
• Custom built all of the engine cowling pieces and doors. Installed Piper style cowl door latches.
• Modified the nose bowl with a ram air inlet for the forward-facing fuel controller
• Fabricated fiberglass conical airbox to include the alternate air door
• Recessed two flush mount Baja landing lights into the nose bowl
• Fabricated a housing on gull wing doors for spring loaded center case two-point latch (bell crank style)
• Made carbon fiber rear bulkhead panels, cargo door panels, wing root panels, etc.
Everyone says I am making great progress. But, I know my perfectionism and desire to constantly re-do everything is slowing me down. So, I have to keep reminding myself of something I heard from an RV-10 builder, “perfection is the enemy of progress”. That is so true!
You won’t build yours as I did mine. And I know many of you will whisper behind my back, “He built it TOO heavy!”. And that’s ok, you don’t have to whisper, I know it. But my mission isn’t as a utilitarian back country hauler. As Mike Silvernagle says, it’s a “business traveler”; the best description for my intended purpose.
My business takes me all over the east coast of the U.S. and I look forward to the days of avoiding TSA and flying myself to business meetings in an airplane that will be equipped for improved comfort. Speaking of weight, if I can keep my empty weight under 1,550lbs, I’ll be happy. I’m trying to use lightweight materials where I can, but I will also have leather seats and a fully carpeted interior, and an IFR instrument panel that includes a WAAS navigator that weighs 13lbs.
The engine I have installed is a new Lycoming IO-540 Thunderbolt that Mark Goldberg helped me purchase directly from Lycoming. I decided that if I was shopping for an experimental engine, I wanted it directly from the manufacturer. It feels like a safer decision to
purchase an engine with a recently cast engine case, improved manufacturing tooling and assembly tolerances. Plus, the Thunderbolt division will only go so far in producing an engine with a maximum compression ratio of 9:1. They let you decide if you want electronic ignition (on you to install), or mags. It does come equipped with the experimental Airflow Performance fuel injection system.
Reflecting back over the almost 2 years, much of my time was spent studying the manuals and plans, acquiring the appropriate tools, and learning to perfect certain processes. For example, I was intimidated about fabric covering and the painting process. But thankfully Stewart Systems has excellent YouTube training videos for all of it. As a result, I think I did a decent job covering and painting the fuselage. In fact, covering and painting have been my most enjoyable building tasks. I chose Stewart Systems because their products are all water based which was a safety consideration over solvent based systems, especially in the closed quarters attached to my home that I am working in.
Based on my experience so far, I plan to build another Bearhawk in the future. Probably a Patrol. I know I can do a better job next time and I enjoy the challenge and rewards of building my own aircraft. With any luck, the 4 Place will be flying before the end of 2020!

Installing a Lycoming type Engine

Some builders have found it challenging to get the engine onto the mount for the first time. The good news is that these steps are pretty universal, so rather than re-invent the wheel, we’ll provide a few resources that you may want to consider.

Here’s a link to a great article on Doug’s site, targeted to RV builders but applicable for us too.

Similarly, Doug hosts this very good discussion thread with some common questions.

Helpful books, available at the EAA Bookstore:
Firewall Forward: Engine Installation Methods by Tony Bingelis
Tony Bingelis on Engines by Tony Bingelis
Sky Ranch Engine Manual, by John Schwaner

Selecting Engine for the Bearhawk Patrol

by Steve Busby, Aerolite Flight Services

The Patrol can accept engines from 115hp to 210hp. The prototype is powered by an O-360 Lycoming 180hp engine, and this is the standard choice among most builders. It is up to the builder to decide on accessories and engine configuration, e.g. carburated vs fuel injected, standard mags vs electronic ignition. The kit is supplied with a Lycoming O-360 Type 1 dynafocal mount. This mount will work on all four cylinder Lycomings except the engines that have conical mounts.

If a builder wants to use a smaller engine, e.g. Lyc O-320, then you will want to keep weight in mind when building. 180hp is very adequate for the patrol, though, as the horsepower rating is stated, you can go higher. As an experiment on an early Patrol kit, we had a 210hp IO-390 in the shop, so we test fitted it to the kit. It bolted right on to the engine mount, but being an angled valve motor, was wider than a 360. To make the cowls look right, it was decided a wider firewall would be needed. We decided right then that the required mods were not worth the extra expense, complications and weight penalty.
The same kit as mentioned above, was fitted with a 195hp IO-375 Lycoming, with dual Pmags for electronic ignition. The accompanied pictures here show that installation, but a 180hp O-360 would be very similar, the large oil cooler being the biggest change. Though the performance with the 375 is amazing, a standard 360 will meet most everyone’s needs and will provide performance beyond most builders expectations.

EFII Experience in the Bearhawk Patrol

Source: 2018 Q2 Beartracks, Ed Meyer – Bearhawk Patrol N101EP (Co-owned with Paul Nowaske)
As promised on the Bearhawk Forum after a few requests, here is a write-up of our experience with the Electronic Fuel Injection and Ignition (EFII) system.
Why EFII
As a bit of background, I had a couple years of experience beginning 1969 where I worked in an FAA repair station overhauling Lycoming and Continental engines. My job was to overhaul accessories which included carburetors and magnetos. During this time I gained good understanding how they work and always thought that a carburetor in particular was a pretty crude way to get fuel into an engine. The one plus is that it is very simple. Later, in the ‘80s, automobiles transitioned almost exclusively to using electronic fuel injection and ignition and I observed that the reliability of our cars went up significantly without the frequent attention that the temperamental old systems required. We wanted something more modern for a new airplane.
The EFII system seemed to fill the bill. We opted for the dual system with many redundant components for reliability. We have two of most of the components in the system so that no single component failure will stop the engine. There are two crank position sensors, two MAP sensors, etc. driving two different ECUs. The ignition is driven by both systems much like dual mags where one set of plugs is fired by each. The injection is controlled by one system with a switch to change to the other if needed. This is always checked during run-up assure both are working properly.
Other considerations
The EFII system is 100% dependent on a steady supply of electricity for operation. Therefore we chose to install redundant electrical systems. We have the normal belt driven alternator plus a gear driven alternator on the vacuum pump pad. These each have an Earth-x battery. There is a main bus and an E-bus that each feed the redundant components of the EFII system. One of the optional components in the EFII system is a box called a Bus Manager that helps to insure power is always available. Given our dual electrical systems, the Bus Manager might not have been necessary but one feature included in it is automatic fuel pump switching if the main fails. I once had an engine failure in a low wing airplane which requires fuel pumping. After getting on the ground, luckily safely, and thinking about the events, I could not remember if the aux fuel pump had been turned on immediately. It was on after landing but I don’t know when it got turned on. Lots to think about when it got real quiet up front like where to land and such. The automatic switching appealed to me. This is checked at every engine start. When the system is first powered up, there is no fuel pressure so the Bus Manager switches to pump 2 automatically. Once the pressure comes up the selector switch can be set to number 2 then back to number 1, the main pump, it will stay on number one unless fuel pressure drops.
Installation
The EFII system has a good set of instructions for installation and we had little difficulty with following them. It required pulling the intake tubes from the engine and sending them in to have fittings welded on for the electronic injectors. (I understand the new System 32 EFII does not require this.) Also, the flywheel had to be sent to have a permanent magnet installed for the crankshaft position sensors to detect.
The EFII requires a fuel return line to be installed. We puzzled over this quite a bit to try and make this as simple as possible. Installation of a header tank was considered but rejected for a number of reasons. We finally decided to simply add a fuel fitting bung to each tank at about the center of the wing root rib lightening holes for easy access. A friend was a good aluminum TIG welder and did a first rate job on them. We opted for the duplex SPRL V4-4P fuel valve that includes left, right, both, and off settings for both the feed and return. Not knowing how much fuel returns, it seemed good to return it to the tank is comes from. I still do not know how much returns but I have since seen where some airplanes have return lines going to only one tank regardless of which is selected. This would be somewhat simpler than what we did but I would still want to know that the return volume is relatively small before I would opt for this.

We did have an issue installing the fuel valve. We had the lines all nicely run and hooked up and then during pressure testing it seemed the valve was not sealing as it should resulting in phone calls, emails, returning valve, etc. Turns out that we had installed it wrong! Somehow we had assumed the top section of the valve was the feed side and the bottom was the return. Not correct. After re-plumbing it was fine.
Our fuel system uses Bob’s design through the gascolator. Lines come from fore and aft of each tank to tee fittings inside the boot cowl then through the fuel selector valve to the gascolator. The EFII instructions state that a gascolator is “not required nor desired.” We chose to use it anyway for a couple reasons. It gives us a low point to sample the fuel for contaminants and it provides a screen ahead of the inline fuel filters that are supplied with the EFII system. One critique of inline fuel filters I have heard is that there is no way to tell if they are becoming plugged up. I think with the gascolator, if there were enough contaminants to be a problem they would show up there first.
After the gascolator, the fuel flows through the first inline filter then to the redundant fuel pumps which are under the floorboard near to the fuel valve. The pumps come mounted parallel in a manifold that has a single inlet and outlet. From there the fuel flows past the firewall to another large fine inline filter before going to the ‘rail’ which is hoses running to each injector in series. The picture below shows the secondary filter and fuel lines in-side fire sleeve running to #3 and #1 cylinders as well as the lower spark plug wires. From there a hose connects to the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted on the firewall. Then it returns to the fuel valve and finally back to the tank.

The ignition portion of the EFII installation is quite simple. The two coil packs need to be mounted and there were magneto cover plates provided that had mounting provisions for the coil packs. Crankshaft position sensors need to be installed near the flywheel on the front of the engine and the plug wires had to be made up to length but all the parts were provided. One of the advantages of the system is that it uses automotive spark plugs which are much less expensive than aviation plugs. Knowing we were going to use this system, we had Bob install cylinders set up for 14mm spark plugs when he built our engine. Even with the unshielded wires and plugs there is very little ignition noise in the radio. If I have the radio squelch open I can detect a small amount of noise that changes with the ignition checks during run-up.
Oxygen Sensor
One component that is separate from the EFII system but recommended is the installation of an O2 sensor and gauge for reading fuel/air mixture. In automobiles running unleaded fuel, the O2 sensor feeds back to the ECU so it can automatically adjust mixture for optimum. The EFII system does not use this feedback in order to maximize reliability since O2 sensors often fail, especially with leaded fuel. The sensor is mounted high in the exhaust only 3 or 4 inches from the cylinder head which is claimed to help it keep from fouling. So far so good on ours and I have heard of them going several hundred hours without problem. The mixture gauge, which gives a real time F/A ratio reading, is real nice to have especially when doing the initial setup of the system. In the picture at the right, the F/A mixture gauge is in the center above the EFII programmer with the mixture knob is to the right of it. The switch on the right is to select which ECU is controlling the injection with the 88 ECU normal. The key switch is left of the programmer.
Operation
The EFII system comes with a ‘programmer’ that provides the interface to adjust settings in the system. We opted to install the programmer in the instrument panel but it is not actually required during system operation. I have never changed any settings in flight and do not intend to. I have looked at some parameters occasionally but it is not easy to see in flight.
Before first engine runs, Robert Paisley, the man behind EFII, sent a set of values to update the default settings that were in the system. Robert spent 30 or 40 minutes on the phone with me describing what all the parameters are for and what settings I should change and what to be very careful of changing.
On first attempts at starting, it was somewhat slow to start. The system ECUs are identified and 71 and 88, which is a reference to the rotational reference of the crankshaft trigger sensors that drive them. It finally started by changing from 88, which is considered to main ECU, to 71 and adjusting the mixture knob richer. I later found that the selector switch was installed upside down, (amateur built you know) so it actually was on 88 when it started.

We ran it several times at various power settings looking at the mixture and adjusting until it was about right. This was done by setting the mixture knob until the mixture reading was about 12 to 1 then reading the percentage of knob adjustment on the programmer followed by changing mixture setting values for the various RPMs by an equivalent percentage and trying again to zero it in. This sounds like a lot of ground run time but it actually was not much.
I toyed with the idea of having someone with more recent experience than me make the first flight and there were volunteers willing. I opted to fly it myself mostly because of the EFII system being quite different and by now I un-derstood it better than anyone in the area. While flying I would carefully monitor mixture, adjust the mixture knob and then change settings back on the ground until it dialed in pretty well.
On early flights, the CHTs were a little high so we had to work on that. I think the biggest part of the fix was in-creasing the air outlet size at the bottom of the cowl and installing a lip. We also adjusted the baffles a little espe-cially right in front of #2 cylinder to allow more air to flow past the area that has very little cooling fins. One other change which seemed to help some was to change the timing a little at high power settings. This is also done from the programmer interface. I did not even open the cowling for this. It has settings that increase the timing up to 30 degrees before TDC above about 1500 RPMs. Additional settings retard it back a few degrees at high MAP. I in-creased these setting for a little more retard at high power. Especially for a new engine I would recommend that more retard is good at high power.
Normal Operations: Start-up begins with turn on of the fuel valve (the pump howls loudly if turned on before the fuel valve) followed by turning on the key (equivalent to master switch) which powers up the system. As previously mentioned fuel pump #2 comes on requiring the pump selector switch to be set to #2 then back to #1 which veri-fies the automatic switching function and verifies both pumps are operational. Once the EFIS boots up, I crack the throttle a bit and activate the starter switch. The starter can draw current from either battery or both and all this functionality came prewired with the Bus Manager. As it stands right now, when the engine is cold, I normally have to run the starter for a few seconds, pause a bit, and then activate the starter again and it fires right up. (I under-stand it is possible to update the firmware in order to be able to open the throttle a time or two the get the equiva-lent of an accelerator pump function providing a bit of prime.) If the engine has been run, even after several hours, it starts right away on the first try hot or cold. There are zero hot start issues.
Run-up includes an ignition check where power to each coil pack is turned off momentarily to ascertain that they are fully functional. There is no ‘mag’ drop when doing this. If anything there is a very slight increase in RPM. I suspect this might have something to do with flame propagation in the cylinders and the 1700 run-up RPMs. Also, momentarily switching from ECU 88 to ECU 71 during run-up verifies that ECU 71 system components all work properly. To shut down after flying: turn off the key. Just like a car. I normally turn off the fuel valve as well but having forgotten that a time or two created no issues other than some fuel migrating from one side to the other via the both setting of the fuel valve.
LOP Operation: With the EFII system it is easy to run well lean of peak. I am able to run it at about 16-17 to 1 and it still runs smooth. I can detect a slight power drop with it this lean but it stays smooth and CHTs drop about 20 degrees. According to Dynon, this is nearly 100 degrees LOP. I have thought about changing the settings for fuel flow to automatically lean like this at the RPMs I use for cruise which are generally anywhere from 2200 to 2400. I have been reluctant to do that because I am afraid that while increasing RPMs like starting takeoff, or going around, it might cause a stumble when going through these cruise RPMs. The benefit of this would be that the mix-ture knob could simply stay centered for all operations. Instead, for now at least, it is set to be equivalent to full rich when the knob is centered and when in cruise I can turn the knob to about the 10 o’clock position for LOP. This works easy and predictable. A good thing is that once set, it stays even when changing altitudes. A before landing checklist item is to reset the mixture knob back to center much like setting the mixture to rich for legacy systems.
Would I Recommend EFII? Yes. The engine runs very strong and smooth. I have no way of knowing how much power it is actually making but it feels strong and others have commented on the performance of the airplane. There is definitely a learning curve with the system. There is little doubt that it was somewhat more expensive than an old fashioned carburetor and magneto setup, especially with the addition of the second alternator and battery. Is it worth it? It was for us. I like it.
Robert Paisley adds: “Since Ed’s EFII installation, there has been a major update in the design of the EFII systems.
EFII is in the process of releasing all-new control electronics with many added features designed specifically for the needs of experimental aircraft. The updated EFII kit is called System32 – additional information can be found at www.flyefii.com.”

Engine Baffles

Although it is absolutely possible to make your own baffles from scratch, using poster-board templates, many builders shortcut the process by starting out with baffle kits from Vans. Pick a set that matches the engine you are installing, with the RV-10 kit being for the 0-540. For the smaller engines, the two-seat RV kits will work best. Be sure to get the fuel injected version if you have the angle valve engine, or the carbureted version for parallel valve engines.

Keep in mind that the baffles are subjected to an extreme operating environment with lots of vibration. Be especially particular about stress risers and imperfections at the edges and holes.

Once the baffles are installed on the engine, you’ll need to trim (or extend) them to allow for a 1 inch gap between the baffles and cowling. Once the baffles are close enough to shape that you can install the cowl without making contact with the baffles, one trick to model the cowl shape onto the baffles is to mount jumbo paper clips on the baffles every inch or so. Carefully install and remove the cowl, allowing it to transfer its shape by moving the paper clips down.

All openings in the baffling, any areas that would allow air to escape, need to be sealed with High Temp RTV.

A Note on Baffling Theory
The goal of a good baffling system is to move as much air as possible through the cylinder cooling fins as efficiently as possible. This is accomplished by baffling in such a way that there are no leaks and the only way air can leave the plenum on the top side of the engine is by going either through the cylinder fins or the oil cooler. This maximizes cooling and minimizes cooling drag.


View of rear of spinner area: A nose baffle, as shown, stops circulation and leaks around the nose of the case.


When trimming the baffles enough room must be left between
the baffle and the cowling for the baffle seal.


Note the relationship of the rear baffle to the string, which stretches from the nosebowl to the firewall. Van’s baffles are too tall and using strings will establish the proper height.

Oil Coolers – Selection and Mounting

Keeping oil temperatures within limits is an incremental endeavor that is won and lost in small performance improvements that add up in small 5-10 degree leaps. You’ll need to construct a robust system that includes enough of these improvements to keep your engine cool, but you won’t know how much effort to exert until you’ve started flying collected measurements. Some builders bolt on whatever they can find and fly happily into the sunset. Others have to work hard to get every degree that they can.

The whole oil cooler situation can be frustrating. It is clearly a part of the engine system, but if you ask an engine manufacturer what kind of oil cooler to use, they’ll tell you to consult the airframe manufacturer, since it’s not an engine part, but an airframe part. You can ask the folks who sell the oil cooler how much support is required, and they’ll tell you “as much as you can provide.” This is obviously of little help to the homebuilder.

One good strategy is to find someone else’s successful installation and duplicate it. There have been many successful oil cooler installations, and many unsuccessful installations. If you can keep the temperatures where you’d like without any structural cracks in 50 or so hours of flying, then you’ll know you’ve done it right. It is not advisable to duplicate an installation that has not yet proven itself in service. Consider type-certificated airplanes of a similar performance envelope, and if all else fails, see how the RV guys do it. Be aware though that several Bearhawk builders have found the basic configuration drawn by Vans to be inadequate, perhaps due to our lower cruise speeds and generally larger engines. Then again, several RV builders have come to the same conclusions.

First, which oil cooler should you choose? There are two major construction categories, drawn cup (below, left) and bar and plate (below, right).

Aeroclassics sells the latter as a high efficiency version. The ends of the cooler will reveal the type.
Drawn Cup:

Bar and Plate:

Both types of cooler construction are be stacked into layers to determine the cooler size. For engines less than 180hp, smaller 7 and 9 row coolers may be adequate. Larger engines will probably require larger coolers, perhaps 13 rows or more.

High efficiency coolers are also available as single pass or dual pass. The dual pass coolers have two stages, so you can think of them as two small coolers in series.

We recommend new or professionally reconditioned oil coolers, because they are a common trap for engine debris. While you are ordering, get the appropriate steel AN fittings for the size of the lines you’ll be using. Most Lycomings use 5/8” (AN-8) lines, and most coolers are provided with pipe threads. Fittings to consider include AN816 (straight), AN823 (45 degrees), and AN822 (90 degrees). The lines will need to be flexible, and should be fire sleeved and pressure tested before you use them. 500 PSI is plenty. Some builders have found that smaller -6 lines restrict flow, thus slowing the oil enough to allow it to spend slightly more time in the cooler, and thus lower temperatures.

The mounting location will vary depending on the type of oil cooler you choose, and where it will fit. One option is in front of the engine, with the oil flow horizontal and the airflow vertical. For Lycomings, this would be in front of the number 2 cylinder, since it is positioned further aft than the number 1 cylinder. In this location, the cooler will have access to intake air that has not been warmed by the engine. This location will require longer hoses though, since the engine oil outlet and inlet are at the accessory case. Another option is vertical on the aft baffle (air flow horizontal), usually behind the number 4 cylinder. Both of these baffle-mounted locations will require structural enhancements to the baffles, which will need to carry the heavy cooler without generating cracks in the long term. The cooler will be subject to all engine vibrations, which will be substantial.
Mounting the cooler off of the engine will reduce its exposure to vibration, but will require flexible ducting to get the air from the high pressure area above the engine to the cooler. 4” SCAT type ducts are often used, but keep in mind that the rough surface inside the duct can generate pressure-robbing turbulence. Consider also SCEET type of duct, which has a smoother interior. You’ll get the best performance if you can make bends with smooth fiberglass plenums, while using the flexible duct on the straight runs. Plenums are available from Airflow Systems, or you can make them using lost foam male mold techniques (Google it).
When bolting the cooler in place, put tubing spacers that run between the two flanges of the cooler so the mounting bolts engage both flanges and don’t compress them together. The flanges of the cooler are aluminum, and as substantial as they seem, a single flange isn’t intended to support the cooler by itself. They are very soft and bend easily.

If your installation proves successful, please come back and add a comment with the details, or provide some documentation for the Beartracks newsletter, or a post on the message board. Successful data points are welcome.

Photos of a successful installation provided by Mark Goldberg:





Butterfly Valve for Oil Cooler Airflow

Source: 2017 Q3 Beartracks, Mark Scott
I have always had difficulty getting the oil temperature hot enough. I checked my oil temperature gauge against a calibrated digital thermometer and it is pretty accurate. From everything I have read it is good to have oil above 180 deg F. I have a well baffled Positech oil cooler (Model 10634C) on my IO-540 engine. To get the temperature up I installed a cockpit controllable butterfly valve.

The first picture shows my installation. My cooler is attached to the engine mount at four points using simple custom brackets and adel clamps. The valve is located on the oil cooler air inlet adapter flange and controlled by an adjustable locking T handle cable control (Aircraft Spruce part No 05-15100). I made the air inlet adapter and purchased the flange. Originally I used a hose clamp on the 4 inch SCAT tubing to flange connection. The butterfly valve shaft does not allow that. Therefore I made a safety wire clamp using a “Clamptite” tool. This is a pretty handy tool. Search on Clamptite to learn more about it.

The second picture shows the valve assembly. The .016 in thick aluminum plate is mounted to a .250 in OD steel tube with three 4-40 screws and lock nuts. I drilled 3/8 holes in the flange and a plastic bushing was used in the bottom to keep the steel tube from wearing on the aluminum flange. I made a low profile steel bushing for the upper hole. This allowed me to use the return spring and the steel washers sandwiched between the valve plate and flange to retain the plate assembly. The return spring is a safety feature. The coil spring will force the valve to the open position should the control cable come loose. One end of the spring is connected to the flange, the other to the aluminum arm. I drilled a .063 in hole in the 3/16 bolt for the control cable and secured it with nuts and washer. The 3/16 bolt rotates in the arm. The control cable case is mounted to the engine mount with a pair of adel clamps. The full closed stop is made by contact between the control arm and the cable case. The full open stop is the contact between the cockpit control handle and its mount. Notice the valve plate has a squared off edge. This is to allow some airflow even when fully closed. I left about a 1/8 inch or so clearance between the flange and the valve plate perimeter. That may be enough bleed without the squared off edge. Experiment with plate sizes to see what works for you. I am seeing about a 25 deg F rise in oil temperature with it closed. This finally gets my close to 200 deg F at 60% power, 125 kt cruise in summer conditions. I hope to maintain 180 F of hotter this winter.

The Case of the Mysterious Exhaust Valve

Source: 2017 Q2 Beartracks, Pat Fagan
Like the E F Hutton adds of old, when you’re airplane talks, you should really try to listen. My Lycoming O-540 had been trying to tell me it had a problem for almost two years but I could never figure out what it was trying to say. I have a 6 point engine monitor and the problem first surfaced as a CHT variation on #3 cylinder. # 3 always ran about 50 degrees cooler during warm ups but it always came alive and fell in line during the run-up and in the air. Over time I talked about this with many people and got many suggestions but none seemed to resolve the problem.
At my last condition inspection in August # 3 cylinder had a bad leak down test but I was able to bring it back in line by striking the valve spring. Things continued as they had until this year when the cylinder began to run 50 degrees cooler than the others even in the air. It still had a good run-up on the ground but I was starting to sense it wasn’t as smooth in the air as it should be. On a flight last month I was doing my usual power off approach to my home field and felt a distinct roughness from the idling engine. On the ground I did a run-up which checked out fine and I didn’t feel the roughness I thought I had sensed.
I had been looking forward to attending the Bearhawks to Idaho event but I was becoming concerned that back-country flying with this engine mystery wasn’t a smart play. My hand was finally tipped on Memorial Day weekend when I couldn’t get a good run-up out of the engine. Back in the hangar I immediately performed a leak down test on #3 and, good Lord, I had zero compression, with air gushing out the exhaust stack. Thus began the mysterious search into the offending exhaust valve.
My first indication that something was truly weird came when I discovered that if I pulled the prop past TDC on #3, then backed it up to TDC the valve would seat and seal the chamber. Whaaat? That can’t happen. Pull it all the way around the proper direction again and the result was always zero sealing. I pulled both spark plugs and dropped the exhaust manifold so I could look things over with a bore scope and everything looked fine, excellent actually. I applied air to the cylinder again and used my stethoscope to listen to the air rushing out the exhaust port and here’s where it got even weirder.
While probing the valve stem through the exhaust port the rubber hose of the stethoscope touched something which caused the valve to close and the leak down tester to indicate 80/78. Whaaaat? Like in Eric Burden’s song “Spill the Wine” this really blew my mind. I did several more tests, pulling the prop around to #3 TDC, applying air, and probing with the rubber hose and every time got the same result, zero sealing until the rubber hose hit something which caused the valve to close. I finally just stuck my finger in the exhaust port and was stunned to discover that with just finger pressure against the valve stem I could slide the valve back and forth about 1/8”. Far from being a stuck valve, I could silkily bang the thing back and forth with just that finger pressure. Whaaaaat?
Completely baffled I sat down and drew the parts on paper so I could see how they all interacted with each other. The valve rocker pushes on the rotator cap which pushes on the valve spring keepers, which pushes on the valve spring cap which holds the whole shebang together. My conclusion was that the groove the valve spring keepers ride in must have gotten worn over sized. Proud of my analysis I called Bob to get his insight and he burst my bubble by saying what I was experiencing was impossible. The rotator cap pushes against the top of the valve stem, not the keepers, and, by the way, Lycoming valves don’t even have a groove for the keepers. Although Bob didn’t like my explanation he couldn’t offer another one so I hung up the phone still befuddled.
Regardless what was going on in there, it was obvious the cylinder was going to have to come off so a new valve could be installed. I removed the jug and drove it to a shop a few hours from home where they did the service while I waited. He showed me what a new valve should look like compared to the one he removed and by God, Bob was right, the valve stem should be smooth with no groove. I was correct as well though as what I was experiencing was the result of a groove that the keepers were riding in. With the jug reinstalled the engine is now smooth again and all temperatures are in the same range.
To sum up, I learned several things from this. Apparently the cylinder was still firing. Once the rocker arm began to back off the rising piston would close the valve and I would get good compression. Because of the slop, though, it caused the valve timing to be off, and limited how far the valve could open, much like a flat lobe on a cam. That must have accounted for the temperature difference. This was also the first time I had ever done a cylinder change. It looked simple enough and after borrowing the proper wrenches I found that it was quite simple. In fact, the hardest part about it would be writing the check to purchase a new cylinder.

Making Barrel Nuts

Source: 2016 Q1 Beartracks, Jared Yates
041Folks with angle-valve Lycoming engines will recognize these little parts that go in the cylinder heads. Their female threads receive the bolts that hold on the baffles near the corners. I used the Vans baffle kit, and it came with all that I needed. I had to make another left rear baffle when I changed the oil cooler location, and during that swap, somehow I misplaced one of these little buggers. It’s worth noting that a little dab of RTV will help ensure that you don’t lose one of yours, but of course hindsight is 20/20 as they say.
If you should find yourself in a similar situation of needing to have one of these, you might have trouble finding one that is commercially available. The good news is that for folks who have the tools and know-how to build an airplane, they are easy to make.
042Start with a bolt. You could use an AN bolt if you want, especially if you have one that has buggered threads or some similar problem. I used a plain old zinc-plated bolt from the hardware store. There is not any concern about strength for this application, but it would be wise not to use something like a grade 8 bolt. The extra hardness is just going to make the fabrication steps more difficult.
Step 1: Drill a hole in the bolt. Chuck it up in your drill press vice and make the final size a number 21 to prepare for your 10-32 tap.
Step 2: Tap the hole. I also added a slight countersink to the hole after tapping, and then chased the tap through one last time. This will help guide the bolt into position when installing the baffle, which is always a little bit fiddly.
Step 3: Cut off the material that is beyond 1/4” or so from the hole edge. I used a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade and then dressed the whole thing in with the bench grinder. Apply a little LPS or ACF50 to inhibit corrosion, and there you have it.
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