Bob’s Method for Making the Rear “D” Windows

Source: 2000 Beartracks, Bob Barrows

In the photo to the right you will see how we faired the fabric from STA. E-M to the edge of the rear ‘D’ window frame on BEARHAWK 260. This gives us a better line and just plane looks better.

The drawing shows this fairing tube starting approximately 9-1/2″ from the “D” window as it was done on BEARHAWK 260.

Use a T1 4130 Tube and weld in place.

Fabric Covering the Bearhawk Cabin

Source: 1999 Beartracks, Bob Barrows

Shown below and on the next page are a few tips on covering as gleaned from constructing the prototype and the second BEARHAWK. You should refer to the basic information on covering in the suppliers manuals such as those published by Poly-Fiber (800/362-3490), Randolph (201/438-3700) or Superflight (800/323-0611). Pick one system and stick with it throughout the covering process of your BEARHAWK.

I decided to cover the inside of the cabin with fabric so as to be functional and light in weight. If you plan to cover the inside of the cabin as we did, you will need to install this fabric first before covering the outside of the fuselage.

Cover the sides of the cabin first, wrap and glue the fabric to the airframe tubes as shown below.

Reference station P-N, including contoured channel from station P forward.



Basically all fabric is wrapped to the inside where it is attached to the top longeron.



Reference drawings 16, 17 & 18.

First cover the side areas in the cabin from the top longeron down to the bottom longeron. Wrap and glue the fabric as shown in the drawings.

NOTE: Wrap and glue the fabric about 3/4’s around the tubing.

All fabric that is attached to the bottom longeron and at station L-F is wrapped to the outside to allow for the installation of the flooring material and the sheet metal located on the baggage bulkhead.



Fabric detail at rear window. Glue in place.



Reference drawings 16 & 17.



Reference section (T-T) on drawing 16.



At station L on drawing 17.



Rib stitch fabric as needed to hold up against cabin side and top frame tubes.

The fuselage outside was covered with the blanket method as shown in the published covering manuals. I used 2.7 oz. fabric on all fabric covered parts.

Bob’s Seat Belt Attachment Method

Source: 1999 Beartracks, Bob Barrows

I have been using a three point type seat belt in the Bearhawks that I build. This system consists of a lap belt with a single diagonal shoulder harness. The details of attaching such a system are shown below. The photo shows the upper attach fitting for the shoulder harness at station D-N.

Bob’s Method for Floorboard Fabrication and Installation

Source: 1998 Beartracks, Bob Barrows

The aluminum floor boards used in the prototype have proved to be very durable, easy to fabricate and maintain. We have not had a problem with denting or wear during the years of hauling engine parts or our camping gear. The .032 2024 T3 floor boards start just in front of the rudder assembly and run to the rear bulkhead of the baggage area at station F. A lip is strongly recommended to help keep things from rolling off the floor and into the belly of the airplane.

The flooring is made in five sections with 1″ overlaps at each station (i.e. B, C, D, E)

Width wise the flooring should go across the floor in one piece from the center of one longeron to the center of the other.

Weld tabs 3/4″ x l” x .040 or larger flush to the top of the longerons and cross tubes as needed to attach the flooring. The prototype uses the clip on type Tinerman nuts but plate nuts could be use employing #8 or #10 screws.

As mentioned above this flooring material has held up well on the prototype after over 450 hours of hard use. You would be hard pressed to find a better material that could stand up to the punishment that we have managed to inflict carrying engines, parts and people around.

The baggage bulkhead (station F-L) is covered with .016 or .020 2024 T3 aluminum and is also held in place welded on tabs and screws. A small aluminum access door, about 12″ wide by 8″ deep, is recommended to facilitate inspection of the rear fuselage. If required, you may have to locate your battery behind the bulkhead for weight and balance.

Bob’s Methods for the Cabin Doors

Source: 1998 Beartracks, Bob Barrows
The door system used on the the prototype and on the BEARHAWK currently under construction uses a two piece door on both the left and the right sides of the aircraft. This design has many benefits such as light weight, durability, ease of construction and the ability to fly with the windows open. There are no detailed drawings available for the door so this area is open up to the builders needs and ingenuity.

Using the two piece design the top section can be opened easily on the ground or when flying up to 120 mph.



As shown in the photos the frame of the lower door half is made from 3/4″ x .035 4130.



The tubing at the front of the lower section is curved to match the fuselage contour (see photo). The diagonal tube shown in the photo can be omitted to save weight. The latch mechanism used is by far the simplest, lightest and most durable that we could design. The details are illustrated below. The hinges on the front of the door are made from .100 4130 plate as are the hinges that are welded to the front fuselage door frame. The door should be built on the fuselage using heavy tack welds to hold it together. A 1/8″ gap should be maintained around the perimeter of the door. The outside portion of the door should be sheeted in .025 2024 aluminum with a 1/4″ overlap at the door/fuselage area.



The top section of the two piece door system also utilizes a frame of welded 3/4″ x .035 4130 tubing. The door is hinged at the top and a clip will hold it in the open position while on the ground. An aluminum skin of .025 2024 is attached to the tubing and is used to hold the side windows in place. The photos and the drawings show the needed details. As with the lower door a 1/8″ spacing is used around the perimeter and the aluminum skin overhangs the tubing (except at the very top) to act as a stop and a seal.

The latch used on the two piece door system is quite sturdy, light and easy to build. The hook gives you something to hold onto while opening the window in flight. The door really wants to get sucked up and bang against the bottom of the wing. Air pressure will keep it in the up position while flying. A small clip is recommended on the bottom of the wing to hold the door up while parked.



Updated Door Information

If you are planning on covering the interior of your doors with fabric you will need to add the vertical tube shown in the photo. This will keep the fabric from distorting the top tube.

Wing Root Cool Air Vents from Cessna Salvage Parts

Source: 1996 Beartracks, Bob Barrows
We have been very satisfied using the outside cool air vents salvaged from Cessna 170/172/180/182’s. These vents work very well in the BEARHAWK wing and are installed the same basic way as used in the Cessnas.

You will need to cut out the air intake hole in the leading edge near the root of the wing. Be sure to polish all cuts smooth to eliminate stress risers.

View of vent elbow as removed from Cessna



At Rib #1 – View of enlarged front lightening hole for clearance with vent tube.



View of hole cut in leading edge of wing at the root section.



Full size cut out of vent hole. Cut this hole after skinning the wings. (Width = 1-3/4″, Height = 1-1/4″)



Locate top of vent hole just slightly above the leading edge. Polish edges smooth.

Child Seats in the Bearhawk

Source: 2015 Q3 Beartracks, Russ Erb and Jared Yates
If there’s one thing the Bearhawk does well, it’s hauling stuff. This makes it a nice family-hauling airplane. Hauling little children usually means using car seats, both for restraint in the airplane, and in the car at a destination. Here are some ideas for those who may find a need to haul small folks.
First, if you are still building, consider making some LATCH-compatible anchors in the rear seat frame. Russ Erb had a recent need to rebuild his rear seat, and while it was apart, he installed the two loops shown on the right. These allow for easy connection via the car seat’s LATCH anchors, which would be so much nicer than fussing with the seatbelt.

The Britax

The Britax

These days, car seats can be a little bit too safe. The picture below and left is a Britax Boulevard 70CS, which has side head protection. This side head protection interferes with headsets. On the Britax the height of the side protection is adjustable, so while our kids were very small, we were able to raise it all the way up and clear the headsets, as is shown in the first picture.
Diono with head protection

Diono with head protection

The picture on the right is of a Diono Radian RXT. This is our first choice seat for use in the car, but the head protection just doesn’t work with the headsets. She can’t turn her head to look out the window without bumping into the pad with her ear cup. In the plane, we use variants the Diono/Sunshine Kids R100 (below), as these are very similar to the RXT, minus side head protection, which allows more comfortable headset use regardless of child height. We find that they fit nicely into the airplane width-wise, because they are still very narrow compared to other car seat options.
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Another major concern is hearing protection and communication. I had two David Clark HS10-13.4 headsets around, and noticed that David Clark sells a youth model of the same. They also sell a kit to convert the youth model into an adult model. If you are starting out with a new purchase, this is a great plan, but in my case I needed to retrofit in the other direction. I called DC to ask if they had such a kit, and while they did not, they offered to send me two youth-sized headbands. In the picture above, the youth headband is nestled just under the full-size headband. This smaller radius fits the smaller heads better, and that piece is all it takes to make the conversion. Even though I converted both headsets to use the youth band, I have since used them myself, and had other passengers of all sizes use them. This may pose a problem for several days of very long flights, but for the kind of flying we usually do, they don’t seem to be any more uncomfortable than usual. For communication, we use the PS Engineering PM3000 intercom, 6-place version. This model has a three-position isolate switch, allowing for all, crew, and isolate. In the “all” position, all four headsets communicate on a single interphone and share the music input on the instrument panel. In the “crew” position, the front two headsets share an interphone and the front music input, while the back two headsets share an interphone and a rear music input. The PM3000 seems to be very capable of handling our noisy Bearhawk cabin, which has no mufflers or sound insulation.

Window and Door Locks

Source: 2014 Q2 Beartracks, Mark Scott
14q2cI like to go to fly-ins and airshows and walk around. Given all the headsets, GPS, and other stuff I would rather not see disappear I like to lock up the plane so I do not have to worry about it. I found a way to make simple and lightweight locks for the windows and doors. The pilot side window is a standard lock unit from aircraft spruce (Part # 11-01600). The pilot side window has the aluminum picture frame per the manual. I added a little material to accommodate the lock and attached it in a conventional manner.14q2d


14q2e
I was going to do the same on the passenger side but thought why do I need two locks? I made up a very simple and light weight cable lock system. The pictures to the right are pretty self-explanatory. The cable has loops at either end. One end is attached to the door. The other loops over the window handle. I use a check nut to secure the 8-32 screw to the door which allows the cable to swing freely. There is a washer under the screw head to keep the cable from popping off. The window handle does not turn clockwise beyond vertical. Therefore once the cable is looped over the handle the window cannot be opened. I wrapped a little piece of fuzzy Velcro on the cable and glued a small hook Velcro piece to the door to hold the cable in place. My back door lock is simple a drop down latch that captures the pull rod. Again the picture is self-explanatory.
14q2f
I can easily reach the latch standing outside the plane and reaching in with my right arm from the passenger side window. There are small 2-56 socket head screw stops to keep the latch within a 180 degree arc. I do find that I have to put the latch in the down position in flight. Otherwise if in the up position it can vibrate and fall into the lock position.
14q2g
The only drawback I see is that you have to open or close in a particular order, i.e. the pilot, passenger, and then baggage doors upon opening and the reverse on closing. That is the normal order anyway so it works out well.

Window Latches to Hold the Windows Open

Source: 2014 Q1 Beartracks, Russ Erb
14q1hThe windows in the Bearhawk are held open by latches under the wing. The original latches I made were built like those shown on the Prototype. I was always a little concerned about this setup, since all of the loads were taken in bending on a fairly thin sheet of aluminum. I knew that one wrong pull on the window would bend the latch and then I wouldn’t be able to bend it back to its original shape. Now that I think of it, I always assumed that the prototype latches were fabricated of aluminum, but they might have been steel, which might have held up better.
Well, eventually, that wrong pull happened, so I needed to do something about it. I decided to change the design to mimic one I had seen on another Bearhawk somewhere (wish I could remember which one it was). This time I used an aluminum angle and cut a slot in one side. This way there were no weak points introduced by making bends.
14q1iI alodined the new parts and was just going to install them that way because the effort of setting up a paint booth and priming and mixing up the two-part paint wasn’t worth it for just two small parts. A friend suggested that I should at least try to find a can of rattle-can spray paint (“Krylon”) that was sort of close to the right color, acknowledging that the color match would not be perfect, but would look good enough from a distance. Knowing that red looks better when applied over white, I picked up a can each of red and white. I first sprayed the angle in white and let it dry for two days. As I was getting ready to spray the red, I realized that with some simple masking, using tape I already had, I could make a red and white strip pattern. It’s not really necessary, because the latch is right above the wing strut and it is almost impossible to hit your head on it. Even so, my wife said she liked the idea of the red and white stripes so I masked the parts and sprayed them that way.

Eric Newton’s Patrol Update

N316BP
Eric Writes: “I am currently working on Firewall Forward. The engine is a Bob Barrows built ECI O-360 and I will have a Constant Speed Prop. This one will be one of the lightest around with no electrical system, no starter or alternator. The interior is done including light-weight cloth upholstery, very low-tech, minimal instrument panel, and fabric interior. The skylight and side windows are 1/16″ Plexiglas and Lexan. Wings are complete except for paint. The firewall forward will be done in about 3 weeks and then I’ll be painting the wings and preparing to hang them for the final time. I am planning to make Oshkosh with this one.
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