1998 Alaskan Odyssey
Elevator Stops
1998 Control Stick Engineering Notice (376 and Below)
Source: 1998 Beartracks, Bob Barrows
Refer to drawing #26 for plans serial numbers 376 and below.
The T3 control link that works inside of the 1 1/8 X .049 torque tube does not have enough clearance to use standard attach hardware as shown in view B.
Make the link as shown below so that standard hardware can be used at the cable attach locations. A 3/16" steel rivet will be need to be used at the control stick attach point. I made the rivet by cutting a AN23 clevis bolt to the 19/32" length behind the threads.
If you have already made the link you can use the AN3 bolt at the cable end with a thin nut with Loc-Tite and or peen slightly (see photo).
Another solution would be to make the .062 end brackets at an angle such that all the hardware works outside the 1 1/8 x .049 torque tube as shown above. Plans number 376 and up have this arrangement. If you would like a new drawing #26 please send $3 to cover printing & shipping cost.
The Bearhawk I am building now will use the control stick as your plans show with the 3/16" steel rivet joint at the control stick attach point. See photo above.
Bob’s Method for Installing the Windshield
Source: 1998 Beartracks, Bob Barrows
The windshield is fitted in place after the boot cowl is made and installed.
The windshield is held in place at the top by sliding into the windshield mounting (section T-T dwg. 16), by tabs which are welded to vertical T14 tubes at section B-P, and by a fairing and backup strip at the intersection of the windshield and the boot cowling.
NOTE: Do not remove the protective film from the windshield. Cut the windshield to fit the boot cowl using a 1/32″ thick 3″ diameter high speed cut off wheel mounted on an air die grinder. Do not attempt to cut the windshield to fit all at once. You should take off no more than 1/2″ inch at each pass.
After the proper fit is obtained hand sand smooth all edges of the windshield.
Windshield Fairing
The Fiberglass fairing is made up of about 8-10 layers of 4″ fiberglass tape, then trimmed to size and sanded smooth.
To make the fiberglass fairing at the bottom of the windshield, tape the windshield in its proper location and cover it and the boot cowl with black electrical tape. Cover the bottom 4″ of the windshield and the front 4″ of the boot cowl where it intersects the windshield. Add a good coat of wax to the taped area and lay up the cloth.
Some of you may be able to make this fairing out of 5052 aluminum. I hope that someone does.
As shown in the photo the fairing goes from the T14 tube around the front of the windshield and back to the T14 tube on the other side of the fuselage.
The back up strip of .032 5052 H32 aluminum is first bent about 110° on a brake, then stretched and shrunk as needed to match up with the windshield and boot cowl. Both the back up strip and the fairing are attached to the boot cowl using #6 screws about 3″ apart with nut plates on the boot cowl.
Bob’s Method for Boot Cowl Fabrication
1998 Wing Strut Material Update
Source: 1998 Beartracks, Bob Barrows
As mentioned in past issues of the newsletter, we have been involved in obtaining new strut material for use on your BEARHAWK project. This endeavor was initiated due to many builders request.
We have designed and purchased an extrusion die so as to produce the strut shown.
The struts are made from aluminum alloy 6061-T6 and heat treated per. spec. Our supplier has provided us with chemical and mechanical certifications for each lot ordered.
We have also designed new aluminum strut end fittings that can be bolted to the strut material. We can supply this NEW strut material and the drawings for the end fittings for shipment inside and outside the U.S.A. Contact R&B Aircraft for details.